Why the compression is so low would be my #1 concern, or did I miss it?

 

@Schex readjusted pushrods, then am going to add 5ml oil to spark hole and retest compression. Am hoping that fixes issue of compression

 

Test it without the oil first, or better yet, just start it up
I'm hoping the pushrod adjustment is the root of the problems

 

@Schex bit of a novice still for wrenching, I thinking compression issue will lie with either the pushrods which I believe are now correct or something with valves or valve seals. When adjusting I set marks the 12 oclock flywheel sprocket 6 o clock cam sprocket and adjusted so they turn by finger then turned marks til they aligned again and they still turn. Did same on front cylinder. Waited 30 to 50 min to bleed which I didn't do first time.... when redoing heads I cleaned them well and used a cloth buffer to sort of clean the valves with brake cleaner. Now I'm worried I altered the valves? I don't think anything I did would alter anything but THAT much. Never used valve grind compound or anything like that. This may not be forum for it but any recommendations on low compression issues? I don't think piston rings are issue I made sure they were in correct orientation and ring spacing when installing as I was very **** about it.

 

I remember a leak down test was mentioned earlier.
Kinda thinking that now would be a good idea and will help answer question about pistons ,cyl,rings ,valves.

WP

 

@WP50 out of ignorance I need to ask, is a leak down test the oil in the spark hole? Service manual is NOT specific on this as I have found.. haha

 

Crank it and check the compression first without the oil in the spark plug hole, if its still low then use the oil and see if the compression raises.The oil is a test to see if its a mechanical issue like rings valve seal etc, its not a fix. for A leak down test you will need compressed air and the gauge (its a two gauge assembly), The compressed air goes in one gauge, the other gauge goes into the cylinder, . Turn the psi up to around 80 on the left gauge and look at the right gauge and see the psi. ( you will hear it as if it leaking). Minus the two and divide by the psi you used on the LEFT gauge, multiply by 100 to get the % leak down. Note to keep the air running. and make sure the cylinder is on compression stroke.
Before you do all that check the compression first as you adjusted the pushrods. Also did you check the CKP voltage and does your bike sound similar to mine when cranking?

 

Well Kinda but there is more to it than just that.
Gotta get to work ,maybe one of guys will have time to explain or find youtube that'll help.

I'll ck back soon as I can WP

 

have not gone back out to check ckp voltage yet, and it more or less sounds like yours. Mine is more slow when cranking by a decent amount. I'll get a video when I have some time to work on it. I'll try to get stuff for a leak down test if compression is not any better when I check today quickly.

 

It may be possible to rent a leakdown test kit from one of the automotive stores. I chose to buy one a while back and I went low dollar as I didn't expect to need it much. This was a mistake as it came with a leak in a made-up hose fitting. I wound up spending more cash to get it workable. If you buy one, keep that in mind. Maybe someone can chime in with a source for one that is trustworthy. I should have asked here before I bought the cheapest thing I could find.