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Testing for Spark on M8 touring

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  #71  
Old 01-14-2024, 08:14 PM
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@WP50 definitely good practice, great tip. Thank you!
 
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  #72  
Old 01-14-2024, 08:26 PM
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You supposed to get system voltage (12.5V) on the red wire, unless the battery is low.These are basic checks you must do before looking elsewhere, so this is good experience for you. Also if you unplugged the CKP and got a code then a bad CKP should throw a code BUT not always. If you are getting ac volts it should be ok. See if the injectors are firing, ( a wet plug or put the leads ,red at red and black on the other terminal of the injector plugged in, and you will see 12V pulse) If its working CKP good if not CKP definitely bad. You will fix it soon.
 
  #73  
Old 01-14-2024, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 60Gunner
My money is on the crank position sensor. There is no reliable way to say for certain it is good except to replace it.
This is what I've always believed...

There is no battery voltage to the CKP.
The pulse is not a pulse but a constant a/c voltage produced by the ckp sensor itself
The drop in a/c voltage caused by the missing tooth tells the ecm what stroke the engine is on.
The only way to test the ckp, is to UNPLUG it from the ecm, put a multimeter on the 2 wires, (R/B and B) and crank the engine. it should show 1-5 VA/C.
This is NOT 100% reliable tho as some will show good when they are not, but if it shows bad, it IS bad.
They seldom throw a code.
100% true. seen this before, but on a car
 
  #74  
Old 01-14-2024, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by EZ_Glide
@60Gunner I had the crank sensor unplugged and got a code when cranking engine, so I hope that none of the wiring up to the sensor is damaged. When I want remounting engine pinching wires was my worry, I don't remember touching the sensor but it's possible it got hit. Do you know if the voltage I got at ignition coil was good (11.5v on red)? I'll check compression again tomorrow to see if that improved and put oil in the spark hole like @paulmedford said. See if that bumps compression while both cylinders are still similar values.
The problem is that code may very well be because the sensor wasn't hooked up. It doesn't mean it's working.
That should be 12V at the coil. You could have a pinched wire or corrosion causing a voltage drop. Did you check the ground to chassis connection? Relays by the ECM?
Electrical issues can be a real bitch. Even harder online.
 

Last edited by 60Gunner; 01-14-2024 at 08:34 PM.
  #75  
Old 01-14-2024, 09:05 PM
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@60Gunner @paulmedford my battery 'should' have been at 12.5v... that's what gauge was reading but never bother to check it with multimeter. Was not wanting an electrical issue and of course that's what I get. I'll look at price of new sensor, charge battery and maybe get something better on the ignition coil but this is my new battery. Would really really cold weather drop voltage a bit? I'm grasping at straws here. At this point what would yall do?... when I did my audio system 2 years ago I got weird ground issues that threw bcm codes and it just sort of worked out if nowhere after undoing and redoing every connection and every screw damn near.
 
  #76  
Old 01-14-2024, 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by EZ_Glide
@60Gunner @paulmedford my battery 'should' have been at 12.5v... that's what gauge was reading but never bother to check it with multimeter. Was not wanting an electrical issue and of course that's what I get. I'll look at price of new sensor, charge battery and maybe get something better on the ignition coil but this is my new battery. Would really really cold weather drop voltage a bit? I'm grasping at straws here. At this point what would yall do?... when I did my audio system 2 years ago I got weird ground issues that threw bcm codes and it just sort of worked out if nowhere after undoing and redoing every connection and every screw damn near.
I would see if anyone i knew had a sensor I could plug in. They're all the same. Just different lengths of wiring to reach the plug in as far as I can tell.
I've cut the connector off and made the wiring long enough to use. I might even have that one. I could send it to you if i do. Might have 2.
Sucks throwing $$$ at it to see what works.
Throw a charge on that battery first. 12.5 isn't good. Should be 12.8. 12.7 at least.
Sitting in the cold will drain them tho.
 

Last edited by 60Gunner; 01-14-2024 at 11:10 PM.
  #77  
Old 01-15-2024, 05:18 AM
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The ckp resistance when measure from the sensor side disconnected is 0.974 kiloohms. The ac voltage when cranking will pulse between 2 and 5.5v volts. Not the best way to check but give an idea without a scope
 
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Last edited by paulmedford; 01-15-2024 at 05:22 AM.
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  #78  
Old 01-15-2024, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 60Gunner
I would see if anyone i knew had a sensor I could plug in. They're all the same. Just different lengths of wiring to reach the plug in as far as I can tell.
I've cut the connector off and made the wiring long enough to use. I might even have that one. I could send it to you if i do. Might have 2.
Sucks throwing $$$ at it to see what works.
Throw a charge on that battery first. 12.5 isn't good. Should be 12.8. 12.7 at least.
Sitting in the cold will drain them tho.
that's the weird thing and something thats confused me, ive been taking the batteries inside and charging them on a battery tender and I usually test them before taking them out and they DO read 12.7 or even 12.8v then when on bike it drops to 12.4v on the gauge. Got tired of lugging them back and forth so i left one in bike with battery tender hooked up.
I'll try checking voltage at ckp when cranking engine and see what I get.
 
  #79  
Old 01-15-2024, 09:46 AM
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It’s not just the voltage but the pulsing like the video I sent . Look at it , the voltage pulses are in sync with the compression of the bike if you listen carefully. It must look similar to the video
 

Last edited by paulmedford; 01-15-2024 at 09:48 AM.
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  #80  
Old 01-15-2024, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by EZ_Glide
that's the weird thing and something thats confused me, ive been taking the batteries inside and charging them on a battery tender and I usually test them before taking them out and they DO read 12.7 or even 12.8v then when on bike it drops to 12.4v on the gauge. Got tired of lugging them back and forth so i left one in bike with battery tender hooked up.
I'll try checking voltage at ckp when cranking engine and see what I get.
Your going to get some voltage drop even with the wires going to the gauge. When diagnosing Do Not trust the dash gauge.
If your close to 12v at testing point Your good to go.
if you all of a sudden see say 10.5 v at test point reck the voltage at the battery and go from there.
Most circuits I have dealt with and components will operate just fine at 10.5v, it's not great but still works

You can have 10.5 v as long as there is enough amp currant flowing

WP
 

Last edited by WP50; 01-15-2024 at 12:38 PM.
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