that should read 12 v. disconnect the connector from the coil and check the red and green wire , should read 12v

 

place the black lead from the multimeter to the negative battery. Use the red lead to check the red and green wire

 

Are you even serious? Like the ecm knows what plugs are installed and decides not fire?
Geezus. Maybe he should try a new headlight too?

 

That comment is from when I thought the OP had ion sensing. That seemed logical. The post after mine, that was clarified. M8 does not have ion sensing.

Thank you for taking the time to go back to read the beginning of this conversation prior to your arrival; sorry you missed the context of my comment.

 

@paulmedford finally got pushrods adjusted and rechecked voltage going to ignition coil. Was getting like 11.5v with multimeter black probe on ground and red on the red middle wire. When I had red on green wire I was only getting 3.4v or so? Never checked compression yet again. I was touching probes to the paperclips as shown

 

I don't know what size of terminals are in the connector tho I have an idea.
Those paper clips can damage the pin tension for those terminals.
Just use the meter probe and touch the terminals in connector Don't push into the terminals

Good Luck WP

 

My money is on the crank position sensor. There is no reliable way to say for certain it is good except to replace it.
This is what I've always believed...

There is no battery voltage to the CKP.
The pulse is not a pulse but a constant a/c voltage produced by the ckp sensor itself
The drop in a/c voltage caused by the missing tooth tells the ecm what stroke the engine is on.
The only way to test the ckp, is to UNPLUG it from the ecm, put a multimeter on the 2 wires, (R/B and B) and crank the engine. it should show 1-5 VA/C.
This is NOT 100% reliable tho as some will show good when they are not, but if it shows bad, it IS bad.
They seldom throw a code.

 

@WP50 is it going to be bad enough to warrant a new connector? Would rather have it all in good shape than risk something... didn't know that'd damage it.

 

@60Gunner I had the crank sensor unplugged and got a code when cranking engine, so I hope that none of the wiring up to the sensor is damaged. When I want remounting engine pinching wires was my worry, I don't remember touching the sensor but it's possible it got hit. Do you know if the voltage I got at ignition coil was good (11.5v on red)? I'll check compression again tomorrow to see if that improved and put oil in the spark hole like @paulmedford said. See if that bumps compression while both cylinders are still similar values.

 

It doesn't always, just not a good practice to do.
If I gotta make a test wire I use some stranded wire as small as I can.
This is to not stretch the insides of a female terminal and helps maintain a good connection on the male side of the connection.

There is a good chance you are good to go so just keep at it. I have done it as well on occasion just need to be careful not to stretch the female terminal.
As much electrical work I have done on vehicles and bikes I can be a bit **** on some things

WP