Sort of thinking the pushrods may not be good I was questioning it while adjusting them. I'll try going through pushrod adjustment again. As for the oil, when I read service manual it just said to add oil if that ups compression may be valve seal related if not was piston ring related? Don't think i saw anything on oiling the spark holes... I tried to seal that up as good as possible when testing compression. I'll watch some more videos on pushrod adjustment and go back at it hope I don't need to tear the heads off again

 

@paulmedford @Schex before doing my pushrod adjustment, I checked oil and it is low by maybe .5 quart. Would this also lower compression by a bit? Just worried it's more than the pushrods, I'm going to do that tomorrow AM so won't have any more input til then. Thank you all!

 

low oil by 0.5 quart wont affect compression. Putting oil in the spark plu hole ( into the cylinder) would raise compression its a check to see if the valves or rings not seating good. Recheck the pushrods first and check compression. Then use the oil in the plug hole. about 5cc ( a teaspoon). Did you check the voltages yet?

 

@paulmedford no to the voltages, compression took my attention. Tomorrow morning going to do pushrods, then check voltage like you said. Should that be all the time then? Or just when it would be firing? Might get bored later tonight and check that if it's a constant 12v to that connection but that'll be one of first things I check

 

12v from the 7A fuse supplies the ignition coil and injectors. Its the system power when you turn on the switch. So when you turn on the ignition switch ( without cranking) the 12V should appear

 

​​​​​
What gauge are using to check compression? If it doesn't have a Schrader valve in the end of the hose where it goes in the plug hole, it will read way low.and the same amount low everytime. If the valve is located in the gauge itself, you have to know the added volume the hose adds to the volume of the combustion chamber and there's a formula for correcting the actual ccp based on the difference in volume.
Ask me how I know there's a Pittsburgh just like this. It read 135psi every time. It's now a leak down tester.

​​​

 

@60Gunner just rented one at autozone, and it did have a Schrader valve on the hose that goes to the valve. From every video I did see online however the psi would stay at the max value reached on the gauge while when I tested the value would keep dropping til it hit about 60 on the gauge then would stay put (or I stopped waiting for it). Is that Normal? The gauge was also brand new when I rented it they took it out of package in front of me. So I assumed the gauge was good but now questioning?

 

@60Gunner just watched video and I think the gauge I have is correct, has the valve near spark plug hold but there is an adapter I needed to get down to 10mm plugs.

 

That adapter will change it some too unless IT has a valve in the end.
I should add this...sometimes the valve sticks open. Mine gauge came with replacement valves. Ever put air in a tire and the valve sticks and your tire goes flat?

 

@paulmedford checked voltage before I dug into cam chest to make sure timing marks are lined up while adjusting pushrods want to make sure it'd 100%. System fuse was getting 12v but the connection to ignition coil was only 8v? This was just with the run switch on nothing else. Also had to use paper clips to get into the connection to test but that shouldn't effect it much?