@paulmedford this is really best starter I have found... 1.4kw. Think I saw somewhere it needs upgraded cables like someone else mentioned.... is this OK? 333 isn't the worst if this is the last thing I need and a battery... if I get it started with 24v to starter should I opt for this?

 

id day lets see how it starts first or cranks not the 24V, then you may be able to repair your starter and save that money.

 

I think your battery is good, the voltage is dropping because of a possible Burnt and shorted pole of the starter

 

Excellent, I'm going to fix my clutch nut first since that's on my mind, refill primary and then send 24v to starter. That'll be done tomorrow

 

I’m seeing a nightmare approaching with the 24 volts to the starter idea.. Anyone else?

 

if the starter is the only thing that will go (which it should as it'd wired independently?) Im sort of ok with it. The starter is only thing to try at this point right

 

its just to see how it cranks over lol. ppl have been doing this long time on high compression engines with a 12v starter, once you know how to wire it correctly. But the idea of the 24v is scary if you never did it before, I do admit lol. But have done it many times.

 

 

Right? This is a trainwreck. From ONLY reading the last few of the 300 posts, it appears the starter is definitely working too hard. The mechanic in me says this is an assembly issue. I have watched boost cables stand up straight when trying to crank over an entire powertrain and/or a crankshaft that should not be turning

 

Mechanical problem vs electrical problem, and you've been getting advice on both. Trying to look at the whole picture here..... the bike shows signs of some sort of binding. Potential clutch issue, maybe starter installation, or something. You've proven you can fire the plugs, maybe wired backwards, but seems like the main issue has been an inability to crank the bike over with enough authority for it to start. Boosting with a car battery worked, but it's a workaround. Yes, the starter smoked and is possibly damaged, but why did that happen? Aren't there all kinds of built motors described in this forum that start just fine with the original starter motor? How come yours wouldn't? If it were my bike I would go very thoroughly through the drive train before I would run the engine. If everything is good there, I would open up the timing chest again and confirm your oil pump is not binding. Remove & reinstall and follow the very specific torque procedure. I wouldn't take the chance that I might cause some expensive damage by running the motor
And, you can inspect the starter for damage and test it. My shop manual is not handy, but it may provide the procedure for that. Otherwise, some of the smart kids can chime in with the knowledge.

Feel free to ignore my thoughts, it's all good. With all the moving parts on this saga, I could be wrong. And, I'm sure you're getting tired of going back and forth. I am sure one way or the other you'll get everything sorted out.