Testing for Spark on M8 touring
#291
Didn’t you say you couldn’t pull the clutch lever?
That is what I was referring to.
There’s no adjustment, on the hydraulic clutch, OEM anyway.
So something’s amiss there
It being a ‘17 bike, was the clutch master and slave ever flushed?
I don’t know if high moisture in the fluid could freeze in extreme cold, is that even possible?
I live in south Louisiana, so I don’t know about that.
That is what I was referring to.
There’s no adjustment, on the hydraulic clutch, OEM anyway.
So something’s amiss there
It being a ‘17 bike, was the clutch master and slave ever flushed?
I don’t know if high moisture in the fluid could freeze in extreme cold, is that even possible?
I live in south Louisiana, so I don’t know about that.
#292
also, should I try the 24v to the starter?
Last edited by EZ_Glide; 01-24-2024 at 01:07 PM.
#293
if I were you I would run the 24v and start the bike . Once it starts you will feel real good. just make sure you only run the 24v to the starter alone and no where else
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EZ_Glide (01-24-2024)
#294
also what cables should use to go from 2nd battery to starter I don't have other cables so need to get something or may have another set of jumper cables
#295
didn't touch master or slave on the bike, only took primary and all that off... i can drain the fluid no issue, should I? I did it last year and year before as it do it yearly. It's still real hard to pull clutch in after it warmed significantly and I've never had this issue in past winters. I have no problem pulling primary apart now as I do think I messed up that final drive nut that goes on outside the basket and plates and all that. But I don't think that would effect the clutch lever?... I'm not sure.
You say the clutch pull is real hard, as in too hard to ride it? I'd start by measuring the pressure plate movement, can remove derby cover and measure, but you'd need a dial indicator, should be about .085,
To tighten the clutch nut, remove the pressure plate, put in 6th , you should be able to hold it with the rear brake, tighten to 70-80 ftlbs
Your starter smells like fire?
I wouldn't be afraid of a good used one
, check Ebay
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paulmedford (01-24-2024)
#296
you only need two cables ( one pair of jumper cables) . You must remove the wire in the top of the picture ( disconnect the ground of the bike battery when doing any wiring.) so remove the nut and wrap that wire in a cloth or something to insulate it. Then on the bare threaded part where the nut was you put the jumper cable coming from the positive of the lithium..make sure it doesn't touch anywhere except that threaded part.. The other cable from the jumper cable pair is what goes from the negative of the lithium to the positive of your bike battery
#297
Fluid should be ok then, it's been flushed recently enough,
You say the clutch pull is real hard, as in too hard to ride it? I'd start by measuring the pressure plate movement, can remove derby cover and measure, but you'd need a dial indicator, should be about .085,
To tighten the clutch nut, remove the pressure plate, put in 6th , you should be able to hold it with the rear brake, tighten to 70-80 ftlbs
Your starter smells like fire?
I wouldn't be afraid of a good used one
, check Ebay
You say the clutch pull is real hard, as in too hard to ride it? I'd start by measuring the pressure plate movement, can remove derby cover and measure, but you'd need a dial indicator, should be about .085,
To tighten the clutch nut, remove the pressure plate, put in 6th , you should be able to hold it with the rear brake, tighten to 70-80 ftlbs
Your starter smells like fire?
I wouldn't be afraid of a good used one
, check Ebay
#299
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EZ_Glide (01-24-2024)
#300
yea that's what I was so confused when installing... the original ring that holds the springs allows you to tighten nut without it spinning. I'll have to redo this as I know it isn't torqued to spec. Then will move to sending 24v to the starter if I need another I'll get another just want to make sure this starts