Testing for Spark on M8 touring
#281
If it's cold there is enough drag inside the tranny to rotate the tire. I regularly start bikes in neutral on a lift with back tire lifted. Rear wheel spins.
The following 3 users liked this post by Max Headflow:
#282
Here is my opinion.
I take it that you have a car battery sitting on the floor and used it to turn the motor over. It seemed to turn over well with the plugs out but with the plugs in it labored? You still need to look at voltage drops while cranking.
You can try and charge the stock AGM, install it and use the car jumper leads and extra to add more current but you still need to see what the voltages are when cranking. You may think you've got plenty of current when you don't.
I've had my own share of issues after building a 131 ci 10.3 to 1 twincam.. It started with a brand new weak battery and 2kw starter. I tried a second 2kw starter. I eventually blew the starter clutch after a few ring gears. Currently running a 1.75. It actually works better but can still stall..
One think I'd also do is fix the clutch if it's not right. Heck if there is something wrong with the clutch basket, it may be the reason why the starter is having issues.
I take it that you have a car battery sitting on the floor and used it to turn the motor over. It seemed to turn over well with the plugs out but with the plugs in it labored? You still need to look at voltage drops while cranking.
You can try and charge the stock AGM, install it and use the car jumper leads and extra to add more current but you still need to see what the voltages are when cranking. You may think you've got plenty of current when you don't.
I've had my own share of issues after building a 131 ci 10.3 to 1 twincam.. It started with a brand new weak battery and 2kw starter. I tried a second 2kw starter. I eventually blew the starter clutch after a few ring gears. Currently running a 1.75. It actually works better but can still stall..
One think I'd also do is fix the clutch if it's not right. Heck if there is something wrong with the clutch basket, it may be the reason why the starter is having issues.
#283
Engine good to go! go relax, you almost there, you made a lot of progress, the starter is toast from the vid so don't give up !!!. @Max Headflow You won't blow the regulator if you run 24v to the starter isolated remember that's ONLY for the starter its not feeding back into the main wiring system, risky if you don't have the experience I know lol, but Ive done it many times. But I agree its a last resort.
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paulmedford (01-24-2024)
#284
I think the scenario went something like this, first start attempt was in 20° or less temps, the clutch won't pull even with hydraulic, so the trans is in motion, freezing oil & gear oil, possible binding in the primary, starter smoked on first attempt.
Get into the clutch problem,
remove, disassemble & inspect starter.
Get into the clutch problem,
remove, disassemble & inspect starter.
#285
#286
@Schex @paulmedford I'll go through primary, see if anything seems amiss or wrong... anything I should look for? Should I completely disassemble down to inner primary housing next to engine? I don't think I'd need to go further than that into stator right?... only problem I remember having with primary was I wasn't able to fully torque this nut on outside of primary (I realize now that I will have to make a special rig to hold down springs that will compress friction disc's to then allow this nut to tighten and not move whole basket. It's an evo industries clutch and there's a plate that covers this nut and holds down springs that is NOT like oem where it has a hole in middle to allow torqueing of this nut). Will attach pic of what I'm talking about. But I'll go through and rebuild primary components
#287
@Schex @paulmedford I'll go through primary, see if anything seems amiss or wrong... anything I should look for? Should I completely disassemble down to inner primary housing next to engine? I don't think I'd need to go further than that into stator right?... only problem I remember having with primary was I wasn't able to fully torque this nut on outside of primary (I realize now that I will have to make a special rig to hold down springs that will compress friction disc's to then allow this nut to tighten and not move whole basket. It's an evo industries clutch and there's a plate that covers this nut and holds down springs that is NOT like oem where it has a hole in middle to allow torqueing of this nut). Will attach pic of what I'm talking about. But I'll go through and rebuild primary components
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EZ_Glide (01-24-2024)
#288
@paulmedford was using stock primary chain tensioner, but I did get new primary chain. Everything seemed nice and not bound up when building. Can I take outer primary cover off and keep everything on then rotate wheel to get all that to spin and see it? Should have correct # of teeth on each sprocket too as I double checked that 10 times
#289
@paulmedford was using stock primary chain tensioner, but I did get new primary chain. Everything seemed nice and not bound up when building. Can I take outer primary cover off and keep everything on then rotate wheel to get all that to spin and see it? Should have correct # of teeth on each sprocket too as I double checked that 10 times
#290
Didn’t you say you couldn’t pull the clutch lever?
That is what I was referring to.
There’s no adjustment, on the hydraulic clutch, OEM anyway.
So something’s amiss there
It being a ‘17 bike, was the clutch master and slave ever flushed?
I don’t know if high moisture in the fluid could freeze in extreme cold, is that even possible?
I live in south Louisiana, so I don’t know about that.
That is what I was referring to.
There’s no adjustment, on the hydraulic clutch, OEM anyway.
So something’s amiss there
It being a ‘17 bike, was the clutch master and slave ever flushed?
I don’t know if high moisture in the fluid could freeze in extreme cold, is that even possible?
I live in south Louisiana, so I don’t know about that.