Testing for Spark on M8 touring
#131
@Schex yep 124 kit. Was running before this all started too. Heads were removed as I thought something was wrong but was stupid and trying to turn wheel in 1st gear and not 6th thinking engine was binding. Power issue.... I had a lithium battery (have had issue with before) and I switch to old original agm battery. I'm hoping with this rebuild again it'll just work? That's the sort of luck I have typically
#132
#135
@Max Headflow it's probably like 5 degrees if that. Been in the negatives for a week..... goddamn engine is an ice block which isn't helping anything I know haha
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Max Headflow (01-17-2024)
#136
#137
#139
@paulmedford @Schex I think I have a leak from my intake valves from the very quick test I ran with blowing air in the spark hole with this leak down tester tube. I didn't put anything in to determine TDC I just rotated wheel til it sounded like the valves were closing and they never did completely could always hear a decent airstream from the intake. Heard exhaust and intake and closing but intake would always have air comjng out. Am going to do full leak down test but not sure that even is worth it with the air coming from intake valves... When I rebuilt heads this makes sense I didn't replace valves on either intake or exhaust and the intake ones looked pretty oxidized or something I would say? Just rough that's why I wanted to clean everything as well as possible. What's best route to go for leaking valves? I'll need to add that to the list but will want to fix that before proceeding to electrical start problems right?
#140
@paulmedford @Schex I think I have a leak from my intake valves from the very quick test I ran with blowing air in the spark hole with this leak down tester tube. I didn't put anything in to determine TDC I just rotated wheel til it sounded like the valves were closing and they never did completely could always hear a decent airstream from the intake. Heard exhaust and intake and closing but intake would always have air comjng out. Am going to do full leak down test but not sure that even is worth it with the air coming from intake valves... When I rebuilt heads this makes sense I didn't replace valves on either intake or exhaust and the intake ones looked pretty oxidized or something I would say? Just rough that's why I wanted to clean everything as well as possible. What's best route to go for leaking valves? I'll need to add that to the list but will want to fix that before proceeding to electrical start problems right?