Thanks for collecting the posts.. Since it didn't change could is be that the valves were hung open or I guess it's possible that he did not disconnect the ACRs. I leak test might help determine if there is valve leak tho a stuck compression release will leak air into the exhaust port.

 

That's why I suggested to loosen both pushrods completely and pump air in the cylinder to see if there was significant valve leaks.
He was going to readjust the pushrods anyway, and he has the hose from the compression tester on hand, just remove the schrader valve from the end and pressure it up.
No need to wait for a leakdown tester.

 

Hey all, got the dowel out since I wanted to tear it down and make sure we're all good. Some stuff I saw reading the new posts, all of the parts I bought should be a fit. Was an s&s kit for the 2017 model, new flywheel, pistons, only thing stock really is heads (stock valves new everything else in there but breathers) and crankcase. Can give more specifics if you need not sure what helps. 4 3/8 stroke, 4.250 bore. Oil test when I tested compression didn't lead me to think piston rings are issue. Heads definitely may be problem, I want to get compression to where it should be then can focus on firing it up? Am renting a leak down tester tomorrow. I have the intake and exhaust off so I'm going to try blowing air in spark hole with piston in compression (what I was doing before dowel incident...). If I understand correctly, a slight hiss is ok from either intake or exhaust but a full blown air stream is very bad? Am going to test ckp while cranking to see if voltage changes with each crank just to check that (possibly) off the list. Who knows maybe with me testing it down and rebuilding it'll work

 

Also, for pushrods I soaked lifters in oil for a day (was going to put a vacuum on them in a Mason jar but never did...) when I readjusted they definitely felt more resistance I could say compared to first time?

 

@Schex I've readjusted pushrods with no change, I've watched a few videos and I'm doing exactly what they do and according to the install instructions. They turn by finger in TDC and are solid when turned to other cylinder if that sounds right

 

What are you using to do this ??

And who put this motor together please
WP

 

@WP50 I redid all this. Did have a compression tester but I returned that thinking I wouldn't get dowel out til later... I also have just a little hand air jet thing with a rubber end that fits snug in the spark hole that I used first

 

once you can turn them by hand then it should not leak by the valves due to the valve being held open slightly.. I think the compression would bump up once you fire up the bike. But that 130 is enogh to get spark. Once you get spark and fuel it will fire up.

 

I think he did with some help .

 

That is the 124" big bore kit right? I ask this because if it happens to be the 128", the pistons would not go all the way to the top of the cylinders and would kill the compression, they would be about.065" down in the hole at TDC.

The bike was running before the engine work?
I was also curious why the heads had to be removed after they where torqued down.

I read where the bike wouldn't power up at one time, what was done to remedy that?
For the electrical problems, try rebooting the bike, turn on ignition switch, remove the Maxi fuse, turn the ignition switch off, wait 30 seconds and reinstall the fuse, wishful thinking, it's a dang computer you know.