I will be checking the fuses and relay if it has one.
As I have described previously, the fuel pump does not seem to be priming/recycling.
Since it is an older bike, I will be ordering a fuel filter, fuel filter housing, fuel regulator, fuel pump, checking hoses.

My bike has a Powervision tuner, but it is not showing any codes. Would a blown fuse or a bad or clogged fuel pump generate a code?

 

Not sure how the fuel pump can eat trash sitting at the bottom of the tank by running out of gas. The trash is floating on top of the fuel? The pickup has a sock on it..

I'd suspect that if you ran the pump a bunch trying to start the bike without fuel that the pump might be damaged.

I'd guess it's possible confuse the ECM in some manner. Might want to pull the ecm fuse for about a minute or 2 then reinsert and try to start.

 

Before tearing into the tank, I would make sure you are getting 12.7 volts to the tank plug when you key on. Check across the black to the O/GY color wires . Could be the 15 AMP fuse,

Remember, only going to see that at a key off to key for only maybe 2 seconds.

Now if it's doing what you said still in post 1, maybe filter but a pressure test at idle would be good (55-62). Requires a special hook up here however.

Still could be electrical. When were plugs and air filter changed. Original fuel filter?

 

Myself I would probably at some point replace everything. But first I would look at the electrical before you add variables. I'd probably verify it is getting power. getting power.

 

Start at the beginning and check your battery connections.

 

Since I can hear at least a single click coming from the fuel pump, I believe it is at least getting some power, otherwise, I believe it would not make a sound, but yes, I will be checking the electric components.

 

I just removed the fuse for the fuel pump and tested it with a muti-meter, and it showed continuity. The bridge inside the fuse is intact, however, when I put the fuse in place, and I use a test light, on either end, there is no power going to it (with ignition switch on).

I also tested the "system" relay. The Ohms between blades 86 and 85 came out at 77, which indicates it is okay. According to instructions I found on YouTube, 85 and 86 are normally closed, and when 12 volt power is applied to 85 (positive), a click should tell you that the relay is good. In my case, there was no click. This most likely indicates that the system relay is bad, which may be why it is not sending a current to the fuel pump fuse. 87 and 30 are normally open, so I don't know if there is a test for those. Now, I no longer hear any sounds from the fuel pump priming.

 

Additional: I was mistaken. 85 is the negative and 86 is the positive. When I apply power to 86 from a 9 volt battery, I can hear the relay clicking, which tells me that the relay is good. The problem remains that the slot for the fuel pump fuse is not getting any power.

 

I am admittedly and willfully ignorant about fuel infected bikes but #30 on any relay is the power feed "in" so it should be energized anytime the ignition is on and 87 is "out" voltage, normally open. On a 5 pin relay, it's the same except 87a is normally closed. 85 / 86 are the control posts negative and positive respectively.

 

I'd look at on line parts diagram and see if this relay is interchangeable with the one for lights.

Fuel pump needs to get power.