If ya put him on ignore like I did, you dont get to see the absolute STUPIDITY of this vermin!
You even might think that humanity doesn't have these phoocking idiots in the world..........such a nice thought huh?

 

Voltage and amperage are proportional. Voltage goes up, so does amperage. Ohms law.


I think you may be thinking about 3 phase electrical systems where a load at 208vac will draw more amperage than the same load ran at 480vac.

 

A 150,000-Volt transmission line carries current to a city.

150,000 volts was chosen as an efficient level to carry the power required by the community. A lower voltage would require a higher current in the transmission circuit, which means the cable that carries the current would be thicker, because the lower voltage must still meet the power requirements of the city. There is a limit to cable size due to weight and expense and other factors. A cable 1 foot in diameter is not practical.

We fall back to our equation. Power (watts) = Volts x Amps.

If we increase voltage, the current drops to meet the same power requirement.

At a substation, we raise or lower the voltage with transformers to meet the voltage and current requirements of the transmission or distribution line and the end user of the current.

With these two examples we can see how the power needs of a single device don’t change, but that power delivered in a combination of volts and amps can change significantly while still delivering the same amount of power. Raise the voltage, the current need drops. Lower the voltage and the current need increases.

If we got 20 people (our force) to push and pull the pallet (high volume) of bricks, we would get a lot of work done. Or a someone not very strong (less force) could push a single brick (low volume) and not do a lot of work. We don’t need a lot of power to move a brick, but we do need a lot of power to move a whole pallet of bricks.

The same is true with electricity.

 

why do you not think that the PMG does not increase power as rpm increases?
the VR determines current via voltage level
the above is a o"scope of my sport. there is one important value the battery does and that is it acts as a huge capacitor which absorbs spikes and ac ripple.
the older mechanical regulators had to have both current and voltage coils and they were checks and balances on each other, why?? remember, the communtator changed the ac to a dc, yes, the generator was an ac machine and the brushes degree'd to swap polarity. some of that current was shuttled to ground but on semi-conductor VR, it just stops the current all together.
that dip is caused because of the hand-off of the magnetic flux. also remember, the average of a sine wave is zero.

 

Coming back to the OP's problem, if a car battery, even a mediocre car battery struggles to start your bike, then I suggest getting a look at your battery cable connections to the starter and the frame. Once they're good, and if a new bike battery won't easily make it turn over, then have a look at your starter solenoid and ultimately the starter motor itself. The service manual should lay out the troubleshooting for those components. Best of luck getting it fixed.

 

I'm still here! I looked through the service manual, and that is what prompted me to post the question. I was hoping there was a "known, standard" problem that I could look at first, before working my way through the steps Since_1968 mentioned. Hopefully a new battery will solve the problem. I didn't get one yet, too much other stuff going on in my life.

Any recommendations for the battery? The one I took out is a Power Source Lightning Start Battery WPX20L-LS 01-352P, which I put in back in 2015.

 

O'Reilly's batteries are as good as anyone else's.

 

deka makes the hd battery and is a tad lower in cost
but
out of all the brands i have tried, the hd lasted the longest so cost per month/year/whatever was nearly the same.

 

A new battery will not necessarily solve the issue. As @since1968 pointed out, if a car battery isn’t helping much, there are other issues. As he stated, start with the main positive and negative battery cables. Remove them, don’t just look at them. Clean, reinstall, tighten. Replace them if you see ANY green on the copper or bad connections. Then replace the battery, which,, at 8 years old, needs to go anyhow. I would recommend Deka (often branded as Duracell) or HD dealer battery. If after all that, it still acts up, troubleshoot starter assy itself and fuses/connections for corrosion, etc. Please let us know what you find.

 

Troubleshooting using an 8 year old battery is an absolute waste of time.

Buy a new battery.

Let us know if the symptom persists.