fuel pressure good but no fuel? 2010 Road Glide
#11
Press up/hold on the fuel rail where it goes into the check valve (@ the tank), and try to start. I have had those stupid check valves click, but not actually push the valve up far enough to pass fuel. If pushing up on the fuel rail allows it to run like normal, but dies when you let go, replace the check valve & the fuel rail.
#12
well pushing up on the check valve didn't do anything either. I did pull every fuse and relay and reset them to see if possibly a little corrosion or bad connection.
Now I notice the fuel pump won't even run. I think that was after I pulled and reset all the fuses.
Went and pulled the self diagnostic codes. Got 7 !!! codes. P0107, P0113, P0374, P1001, P1003, P1510, P2138
So I pulled the main fuse and will let it sit overnight and get back to it. I wonder if pulling all the relays and fuses tripped all those codes?
Now I notice the fuel pump won't even run. I think that was after I pulled and reset all the fuses.
Went and pulled the self diagnostic codes. Got 7 !!! codes. P0107, P0113, P0374, P1001, P1003, P1510, P2138
So I pulled the main fuse and will let it sit overnight and get back to it. I wonder if pulling all the relays and fuses tripped all those codes?
#13
y'all are owed an update since you have contributed...
All the codes were I simply reinserted a relay across two sockets. The socket board spacing is such that you can "jump" a relay between two receptacles, getting 2 pins on one and two pins on the next position over. On my bike there was an un-used relay socket.
Corrrectly positioning the relay removed all the codes. However that did not fix the main issue
All the codes were I simply reinserted a relay across two sockets. The socket board spacing is such that you can "jump" a relay between two receptacles, getting 2 pins on one and two pins on the next position over. On my bike there was an un-used relay socket.
Corrrectly positioning the relay removed all the codes. However that did not fix the main issue
#14
I got a chance to get back to the bike yesterday and pulled the fuel rail and injectors. Contrary to what the factory manual and clymers says, you do not have to remove the induction module.
Pulling the fuel rail supply hose, lots of "crap" dribbled out. Removing the injectors from the fuel rail I found the injectors full of crud and crud inside the fuel rail.
I assume this to be the same crud that was clogging the fuel filter.
Got the injectors all cleaned out. Used an injector cleaner thing, basically a connector and battery clips to hold the injector open while I back flushed it with B-12 cleaner.
Will be putting it all back together this week and see if it will run.
Pulling the fuel rail supply hose, lots of "crap" dribbled out. Removing the injectors from the fuel rail I found the injectors full of crud and crud inside the fuel rail.
I assume this to be the same crud that was clogging the fuel filter.
Got the injectors all cleaned out. Used an injector cleaner thing, basically a connector and battery clips to hold the injector open while I back flushed it with B-12 cleaner.
Will be putting it all back together this week and see if it will run.
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Hammerhead Pat (08-07-2023)
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