Oh yea the tank liner has been an absolute nightmare. I did it on a sportster tank with great results, and then for some reason the same process on this split tank did not take well and I spent an ungodly amount of time removing it. Got it to the point where there was no liner left (at least anywhere I could see), but obviously I didn't get it all!

Borescope is a good call to make sure I don't have the same problem down the road. 115k miles though, jeeeeeez! The amount of maintenance I've had to put into this one at 27k kills me, and only 2k of those miles are from me...

 

We had the grandson's engine apart in a hotel parking lot after it suffered a failed lifter. We had heads and barrels off, rented a torque wrench from an Autozone, found exactly one available lifter at the nearest Harley shop. The bike was 1000 miles from home and made it back just fine. Over the winter he pulled it back down, got the bottom end out of the frame to slosh out any skarf that might have been in there, replaced all four lifters with a new set and fed it a new cam as well. I believe that was around 103k, and was the only significant repair that I can remember for that bike. Oh, I had it apart back around 25k miles to fix a rear cylinder base gasket oil leak, and I got the heads skimmed by HeadQuarters for some more compression while I was at it. This past winter my grandson installed a new wiring harness as a few connections began failing. You're goinig to love your EVO once you get things sorted. The good news is that there are tons of parts available and they are pretty easy to work on.

 

Wow, quite a story! Pretty great to hear there were really only a couple significant endeavors in its lifespan. That and the parts availability are definitely why I got an EVO

Right now it just feels like I'm getting to do all of the maintenance that the previous owner probably wasn't actually doing... Starting to get to a decent base point finally though. I've had to dabble in just about everything already, but I'm sure there'll be more.

 

Well I was hoping to never have anything more to add to this thread, but here I am. The bike has been working great for the past couple of months, but it died on me once more on my commute to work this morning. This time though, it took about 15 mins to successfully restart, which is new, compared to the fact that it's usually been able to restart right away.

The only thing I did before the eventual successful restart was remove and replace the spark plug wires, but idk if that was really what helped or if it was time related from being able to cool down, which could be related to vapor lock, or another faulty cam sensor...

The saga continues!

 

Not that I want to go back and reread the whole thread but did you ever do anything with the cam position sensor?

 

Totally understand. I have not done anything with the cam position sensor, other than replacing it entirely about a year ago.

 

Hey again team,

I'm back at it with the same problems of having the engine die while running. Sometimes it starts sputtering, other times it just cuts out without warning. Other times it works without issue, but those are for short rides. Even with the vented gas cap and a clean tank (no tank liner flakes floating around, and a clean petcock filter).

After diving into it some more I'm really thinking this has gotta be due to a faulty ignition module so I want to get your opinion. Again, the cam position sensor was replaced about a year and a half ago so I think it's gotta be the next thing up the chain.

I attached a pic of the module I'm working with and am curious about two things:

1. Does this sound in line with the problem I'm having?
2. I'm looking at new ignition modules such as the S&S HI-4N or the Dynatek 2000i and would love opinions if anyone has experience with either. This would be a different module type than I currently have and to my understanding it would mean removing the current module and installing this where the cam position sensor currently is. The videos like pretty straightforward but there's quite a price difference, so any insight would be greatly appreciated before I bite the bullet and give her a go.

Let me know your thoughts and thanks again!

 

I'm slowly turning away from ignition modules down in the nose cone ie: Ultima, Dyna 2KI, S&S.. I think there's too much heat down there for them.. I Had two dyna 2ki's fail down in the nose cone .. I do like the Screaming Eagle ignition modules which were made by Dynatek that replaced the stock ignition module.. It's a plug and play as long as you have a good cam position sensor You're good to go.. Dynatek also makes the 2000 which is a direct plug-in for your 92, I believe. Can you post up a picture of your seven-pin connector for the ignition module.. I might have one..

Here's the one I'm talking about..

https://www.denniskirk.com/dynatek/2...RoCLEkQAvD_BwE

 

Now that's interesting. The cam position sensor was replaced a year and a half ago because that got fried and became ultra heat sensitive, so I wonder if one type is really more susceptible than the other, but I definitely down wanna burn through a 2ki myself.

I was actually looking at that Dynatek one that you linked yesterday so I'm happy you recommended it because A). it's as simple to install as it gets, and B). It reminded me to ask what the pros and cons of nose cone vs. the under-seat modules are (if there's anything more than heat sensitivity and levels of programmability).

Also here are some pics of that seven-pin connector.

 

There is no difference in programming, they all pretty much have a status light now to set the base timing.. Heat can be a killer.. When you replaced the cam position sensor, what brand did you use?

I sent you a PM..