Apparently its something with the warranty lawsuit. The dyno will not operate unless it's SE. I was persistent, but it sounds like their jobs depend on it.

Looks like Main Street Moto is the way to go.

I ordered a universal baffle and installed it in the muffler. The bottom end feels better now but the top end is dead due to the garbage tune. I ordered the FuelMoto map and should have that on Monday. I'll have that loaded up and see how it runs. If it feels good, then I'll have Main Street dyno tune off of that FuelMoto base map. They have a really good reputation for HD tuning. They're $150 more than the competition, but $600 seems fair to have it done right. I'm still shocked that the DynoJet corporate guys couldn't get it tuned.

If, in fact, the extremely free-flowing exhaust is the culprit, due to vacuum pressure or whatever it is that everyone likes to call "backpressure" I'm still going to be shocked that DynoJet didn't catch that. Okay, yes maybe a lot of bikes don't have the 117 with RDRS yet, but I have seen more than my fair share here in Vegas and one of the only places in town that STOCKS any exhausts is Red Rock HD and its almost exclusively Bassani that they have on hand. LOTS of Vegas bikes have the same exhaust for that exact reason.

Crossing my fingers that it's not another issue. I'll continue to keep you all posted. I appreciate all of the help.

 

New guy here: FWIW, looks like Fuel Moto wrote an article about your issue, or one that's similar.
https://university.fuelmotousa.com/a...-power-vision/

 

And that's exactly not how to do it. They have it set so the ecm is reading the twist grip sensor instead of the throttle position sensor, thus disabling the RDRS. You do not need to force the tps to 100% @ 2000 rpm.
It only needs to be open enough to see the maximum kpa in your area. Even "big" builds don't need the tps open 100% till maybe 3750 rpm or higher. Here's a screen shot where when the tq control is tuned properly the tps is only open 80% @ 3500 rpm to achieve 101 kpa.

 

Why wouldn't you tune all throttle positions? After you are done you set it do max KPA.. For 1, won't max KPA change with ambient conditions?

 

You guys seem to really know your stuff! What do you suggest? I'm not confident that there is a tuner in my city that really knows how to tune these things.

So I'm assuming the FM base map is going to be a bandaid or is that a good one to work off of? If I decide not to go back to the dyno for a bit, would that be a problem? I am thinking about changing some more parts like air cleaner, exhaust, and maybe even cam. (I like low end)

Lonewolf, i'm still considering the 22XE swap, but it would be another $500 plus the mechanic would keep the 475. I'm not sure that's a great deal.

I'll be in Phoenix at the end of the month, maybe there is a tuner there thay knows how to tune RDRS without disabling it.

 

I do tune all tp's. I have a table to calibrate the ecm to read the same kpa as my dyno. Some combo's the ecm will read 106 kpa but the dyno shows 101 kpa. The table has 500 rpm break points. Yes I will see different kpa's day to day but once adjusted the ecm should follow. I've done a few of these RDRS bikes from small to big hp and feedback is they are as smooth as glass from parking lot to wot.

 

I don't wanna comment on the FM map but as far as I know TTS is the only device capable of tuning the RDRS. Surprised FM hasn't made a comment or suggestion in this thread. I personally don't like the 475 cam, just never worked all that well in the few I've seen. The Woods 22XE works well as do a couple of others.

 

I appreciate all of the info. If I can find a TTS tuner here or in Phoenix, that will be the way to go.

I chose the 475 because the mechanic said it was not overly aggressive on the engine but gave a nice all-around power and amazing idle sound signature. I would prefer a cam that ACTUALLY gives me some power all over the board. Truthfully I never wind this thing out, in fact I used to shift somewhere in the mid to late 3k range just because I liked the low RPM feel and sound better than stock cam at high RPM. I would be open to suggestions, but it sounds like the 22XE is the way to go if I want more of an all around power. The stock cam had nothing up top(at least with my exhaust) and the bottom was just not exciting enough. The amount of cell phone use these days and the amount of traffic here in Vegas...I just want to be bale to blast off from a stop if I'm about to get rear ended...again.

I'm also inquiring about how good or bad of a deal it would be to do the swap for $500. Looks like the Wood cam is about $325-350 and the S&S is $199-225.(I would not be receiving my S&S back after swap) I'm very mechanically inclined and used to rebuild 2-stroke dirtbikes, but I know very little about these engines and don't want to screw up a $40k bike.

 

You should have no problem. Inner cam bearing should've been changed on last cam swap and should have adjustable pushrods. Don't think you'll need any special tools. Just take you're time and ask questions if you need to.

 

I know it's may be a silly question. But are the o2 sensors plugged in the correct location?