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Advice re charging system diagnostic results

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Old 08-19-2007, 02:13 PM
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Default Advice re charging system diagnostic results

98 Evo WideGlide

Per another post, my battery had died due to charging problems, so I ran some diagonstics. After cleaning all connections, here's what I've got:

-- charging voltage at battery: 1,000 RPMS: 11.8 V
-- regulator bleed test: Test lamp doesn't glow but I read 0.7V from each pin to ground.
-- Stator ground test: 0.2 ohms across alternator output leads at the engine block
-- Stator short test: 0.2 ohms when testing from each stator lead to the engine block.
-- Alternator AC output: about 33 VAC at estimated2,000 RPM (don't have a tach)

What perplexes me about this is that the regulator seems to be good and the AC output from the alternator seems to be in spec, but the stator-to-ground test fails. I would expect the AC output to be bad if the stator were grounded.

Any thoughts? It seems like a very big job to replace the stator, and I'd rather exhaust all options before going that route.

Thanks,

Z
 
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Old 08-19-2007, 02:21 PM
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Default RE: Advice re charging system diagnostic results

What is the voltage at 3k RPM???? should be 13-13.4 vdc.....

If it is below 13 (@3k/RPM), then the regulator is bad.....

Open up the inspection cover in your primary... take a sniff....

If it smells like rotten road kill your stator is cooked....

I'll take a bet it is your regulator, as 11.8VDC @ 1k/RPM is too low....
 
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Old 08-19-2007, 02:23 PM
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Default RE: Advice re charging system diagnostic results

ORIGINAL: Z

98 Evo WideGlide

Per another post, my battery had died due to charging problems, so I ran some diagonstics. After cleaning all connections, here's what I've got:

-- charging voltage at battery: 1,000 RPMS: 11.8 V
-- regulator bleed test: Test lamp doesn't glow but I read 0.7V from each pin to ground.
-- Stator ground test: 0.2 ohms across alternator output leads at the engine block
-- Stator short test: 0.2 ohms when testing from each stator lead to the engine block.
-- Alternator AC output: about 33 VAC at estimated2,000 RPM (don't have a tach)

What perplexes me about this is that the regulator seems to be good and the AC output from the alternator seems to be in spec, but the stator-to-ground test fails. I would expect the AC output to be bad if the stator were grounded.

Any thoughts? It seems like a very big job to replace the stator, and I'd rather exhaust all options before going that route.

Thanks,

Z
Normal output is as follows
22 amp system produces about 19-26 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms.
32 amp system produces about 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms.
45 amp system produces about 19-26 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms.

With your reading of 0.7V from each pin to ground, I would change the regulator.
 
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Old 08-19-2007, 02:25 PM
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Default RE: Advice re charging system diagnostic results

Make sure that you are not touching the metal on the meter leads, as this will show a reading, that being said, your meter is nothing of a load as compared to the regulator and battery, electricity will find the easiest path, and the engine block may be a hair more resistance than your meter causing a VAC reading, but when hooked up to the batt, it chooses ground as the easier path.

there are more tests than what you have done....... specifically with the reg.........(first chec the resistance of the reg body to ground, it should be .02 ohms or less) set the meter on diode, disconnect all of the reg connections and remove from mcy. red lead on each stator conn (one at a time) black on batt........ should be .03 to .08ohms .......... now reverse the leads.......... should have no continuity. now red lead on reg body black on stator leads........should have no continuity, reverse leads .03 -.08
 
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Old 08-19-2007, 02:26 PM
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Default RE: Advice re charging system diagnostic results

Thanks SH Bob:

I get no voltage increase at the battery as I run-up the RPMs. I suppose I could change the regulator and see if that does the trick, but I'd prefer to avoid "diagonstics by replacement". That stator being shorted to ground concerns me, since the book says that's a replacement scenario. I'm perplexed because it still has proper AC output.

Thanks Glide:

Since the manual "fails" the regulator on a bleed test only if the test causes a test light to glow (which it doesn't), wouldn't that suggest that a small voltage is acceptable?

Thanks Metro:

I'll give those tests a whirl.
 
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Old 08-19-2007, 02:34 PM
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Default RE: Advice re charging system diagnostic results

ORIGINAL: Z



Thanks Glide:

Since the manual "fails" the regulator on a bleed test only if the test causes a test light to glow (which it doesn't), wouldn't that suggest that a small voltage is acceptable?

If you have voltage on the pins of the regulator plug, it indicates a bad diode in the regulator.
 
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Old 08-19-2007, 03:05 PM
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Default RE: Advice re charging system diagnostic results

When doing the diode test, should I be touching the + or the - on the batt?
 
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Old 08-19-2007, 03:11 PM
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Default RE: Advice re charging system diagnostic results

the battery connection off the reg. not the batt itself. when i say red lead its the +
 
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Old 08-19-2007, 04:30 PM
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Default RE: Advice re charging system diagnostic results

ORIGINAL: Z

When doing the diode test, should I be touching the + or the - on the batt?
Using the red lead of the meter you touch the pins on the plug one at a time and the black of the meter you touch the negative on the battery.
 
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Old 08-19-2007, 04:32 PM
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Default RE: Advice re charging system diagnostic results

When I set my Fluke DMM to Diode mode, it displays in DC volts, not ohms. In that mode, testing as you indicate, I get a reading of 0.49 DC volts with black to batt lead, and 0 volts with red to batt lead.
 


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