Advice re charging system diagnostic results
#16
RE: Advice re charging system diagnostic results
ORIGINAL: Z
-- Stator ground test: 0.2 ohms across alternator output leads at the engine block
-- Stator short test: 0.2 ohms when testing from each stator lead to the engine block.
-- Stator ground test: 0.2 ohms across alternator output leads at the engine block
-- Stator short test: 0.2 ohms when testing from each stator lead to the engine block.
#17
RE: Advice re charging system diagnostic results
Bringing this to a close, the job is done. The problem was in fact the stator. As others pointed out, although it was putting out sufficient voltage with the regulator unplugged, it still failed the ground test (both leads were shorted to ground).
Out-of-the-ordinary tools required:
-- 1-1/2" socket (comp sprocket bolt)
-- 1-3/16" impact socket (clutch bolt)
The job was simple but a little intimidating since it involves removing the clutch pack, primary chain, and compensating sprocket (on the end of the flywheel). Very simple to accomplish really, with the above mentioned tools and an old plastic handled screwdriver that you don't mind sacrificing as a comp sprocket locking mechanism. (Instead of spending the $35 for the proper tool, just wedge the handle of an old screwdriver between the sprocket and the chain. I read it here somewhere, and it worked fine for me.)
You're not supposed to use an impact gunto removethe 1-1/5" comp sprocket bolt--a fact I learned after having done just that. Something about possibly damaging a seal. It worked well for me though, and my $20 break bar (the shop manual says to use one) would never have gotten the job done.
Total time (minus trips for tools and parts) about six hours.
Cost:
$100 in tools (those big sockets were expensive)
$100 for regulator (changed it just because it was old and I've head that it makes sense to change these two items at the same time)
$120 stator (my local tuner says the HD stator is by far the best. He's had nothing but trouble with aftermarket ones)
$65 battery (again, just because)
$35 gaskets
----
$420
I'm guessing, but I probably saved about $400 in labor by doing this myself.
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Z
Probably saved myself
Out-of-the-ordinary tools required:
-- 1-1/2" socket (comp sprocket bolt)
-- 1-3/16" impact socket (clutch bolt)
The job was simple but a little intimidating since it involves removing the clutch pack, primary chain, and compensating sprocket (on the end of the flywheel). Very simple to accomplish really, with the above mentioned tools and an old plastic handled screwdriver that you don't mind sacrificing as a comp sprocket locking mechanism. (Instead of spending the $35 for the proper tool, just wedge the handle of an old screwdriver between the sprocket and the chain. I read it here somewhere, and it worked fine for me.)
You're not supposed to use an impact gunto removethe 1-1/5" comp sprocket bolt--a fact I learned after having done just that. Something about possibly damaging a seal. It worked well for me though, and my $20 break bar (the shop manual says to use one) would never have gotten the job done.
Total time (minus trips for tools and parts) about six hours.
Cost:
$100 in tools (those big sockets were expensive)
$100 for regulator (changed it just because it was old and I've head that it makes sense to change these two items at the same time)
$120 stator (my local tuner says the HD stator is by far the best. He's had nothing but trouble with aftermarket ones)
$65 battery (again, just because)
$35 gaskets
----
$420
I'm guessing, but I probably saved about $400 in labor by doing this myself.
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Z
Probably saved myself
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