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Advice re charging system diagnostic results

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  #11  
Old 08-19-2007, 04:33 PM
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Default RE: Advice re charging system diagnostic results

Thanks glide, the test you describe is the regulator bleed test, which mine passed. I believe jmetro is describing another test.
 
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Old 08-19-2007, 04:34 PM
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Default RE: Advice re charging system diagnostic results

Sorry for the mixup
 
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Old 08-19-2007, 04:39 PM
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Default RE: Advice re charging system diagnostic results

No sweat glide, you're trying to help and that's all that matters!

Z
 
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Old 08-19-2007, 05:34 PM
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Default RE: Advice re charging system diagnostic results

AC output can still be good even if stator is toast.A weird oddity of charging system. Don't ask me how, it isjust written in the bible....
 
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Old 08-19-2007, 06:48 PM
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Default RE: Advice re charging system diagnostic results

And right you are kiwidave. I just replaced the regulator on the premise that, if I have to replace the stator I might as well do the whole thing. It turns out that it's not the regulator so now it's time for a stator.

Z
 
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Old 08-20-2007, 09:29 AM
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Default RE: Advice re charging system diagnostic results

ORIGINAL: Z

-- Stator ground test: 0.2 ohms across alternator output leads at the engine block
-- Stator short test: 0.2 ohms when testing from each stator lead to the engine block.
I think you have your test names backwards here, but regardless, any continuity from either disconnected stator lead to the engine block indicates a blown stator.
 
  #17  
Old 08-21-2007, 12:22 AM
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Default RE: Advice re charging system diagnostic results

Bringing this to a close, the job is done. The problem was in fact the stator. As others pointed out, although it was putting out sufficient voltage with the regulator unplugged, it still failed the ground test (both leads were shorted to ground).

Out-of-the-ordinary tools required:
-- 1-1/2" socket (comp sprocket bolt)
-- 1-3/16" impact socket (clutch bolt)

The job was simple but a little intimidating since it involves removing the clutch pack, primary chain, and compensating sprocket (on the end of the flywheel). Very simple to accomplish really, with the above mentioned tools and an old plastic handled screwdriver that you don't mind sacrificing as a comp sprocket locking mechanism. (Instead of spending the $35 for the proper tool, just wedge the handle of an old screwdriver between the sprocket and the chain. I read it here somewhere, and it worked fine for me.)

You're not supposed to use an impact gunto removethe 1-1/5" comp sprocket bolt--a fact I learned after having done just that. Something about possibly damaging a seal. It worked well for me though, and my $20 break bar (the shop manual says to use one) would never have gotten the job done.

Total time (minus trips for tools and parts) about six hours.

Cost:
$100 in tools (those big sockets were expensive)
$100 for regulator (changed it just because it was old and I've head that it makes sense to change these two items at the same time)
$120 stator (my local tuner says the HD stator is by far the best. He's had nothing but trouble with aftermarket ones)
$65 battery (again, just because)
$35 gaskets
----
$420

I'm guessing, but I probably saved about $400 in labor by doing this myself.

Thanks to everyone for your help.

Z

Probably saved myself
 
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