When I bought my bike I had the stage one done which included V&H pro pipe. Unknown to me at the time it also included thier race tuner which is in the closet waiting for a laptop to load it on and experiment with.

Now that I have had the bike about 2 months, I am growing tired of the decel popping and reading the forums I understand it can be eliminated with proper fine tuning. So my question is,

Has anyone used the Harley race tuner to get rid of the popping and is it possible to walk a none puter savy/half *** wrench turner thru the process to stop the pop or should I take it to the dealer and have them do it?

 

Your bike is running REAL lean and they should not of even let you drive it away without installing the SERT.

Personally you can install the SERT, but for the best performance from your bike I would have the bike dyno tuned once you install the SERT or have the dyno shop install and tune it. Do NOT let the HD dealership talk you into their ECM Flash it's garbage.

Try doing a search on the forum I know there is a thread from another guy who installed his and went through any problems he had.

For your question yes the SERT can be installed yourself and then load a generic map, but I would still get the bike dyno tuned afterwards for the BEST performance.

 

The dealer used the race tuner I bought to set up my bike origanally when they installed the pro pipe and air filter. Beyond that I dont know, what mapping they used or anything technical.

Im not sure there is a dyno in town or not. I think probably not.

 

My understanding is the SERT stays on the bike and you just hook into it at anytime. I could be wrong as it's been known a time or two..

If no dyno shop then I would look online for a map that has the same mods your bike has and load that into your bike.

 

STUPID QUESTION THEN........where would I look for this map? A harley sight?

 

The SERT should come with a CD that contains maps you can upload to the bike. You said the SERT was in your closet? It should have been installed on the bike. You should have a cable you can connect to a laptop to upload the map. It sounds to me like you should probably take the bike to the dealer. They should have never let the bike out the door if it wasn't right.

 

Wolfx
Your race tuner should have a CD with it an when you install the CD you will have the maps.
The race Tuner serves two functions, 1 is a flash deprogrammer for your bike and your bike only since if they used it to load your map the interface module is now married to your ECO. It's 2nd funtion is data mode (like a scan tool your mechanic uses on your car) that function will work on all Delphi HD's
Back to your bike I would guess the loaded map #127LF004 contact your installing dealer and ask them what file they loaded. The tech that did the work should be able to guess what he loaded even if he doesn't remember. Once you know the file also ask if he made any changes or loaded it just as it came from HD/the CD.
That being said typically you have to add more fuel to correct the POP or you have an air leak at the head pipe but that another issue. When you install the software it will also install the manual. Read it!!. Also before trying any flash reprogramming try using "data" mode. The software installs tuning mode and data mode. Data mode you can do no harm only get comfortable with the hardware and read the sensors. When you switch to Flashing always always always make sure your battery is good and a small charger connected to the trickle charge connector would be a safe extra.
Back your bike again if you stay in basic tuner mode when it is time to flash/reprogram basic mode gives you a few less options. basically just calculated Air fuel ratio based off RPM and MAP. RPM is easy Map is a scale of 20-100 KPA think 20 closed throttle decell 20-30 Idle 100=WOT The number in the low ma Cells Will be 14.1-14.2 raising the number 14.5 will lean it more. Lowering the numbers will richen it up like 13.3 If you edit a file rename it and take some notes to what you did. You can always reload the base file and start over. If you go into advanced mode the you get new tables to edit in your map called VE tables. The VE tables allow adjustments to just the front or rear cylinders. Basically your telling the engine how much air it is taking in. in this case if you raise the numbers then it/the ECM will think that the engine is getting more air and will add more fuel (basically raise the VE number and intimately get more fuel) unlike the previous table in basic mode where a lower number adds more fuel.

This may sound like a lot but it's not that bad if your reasonable with a PC you may not have to be that great a wrench. Install the software so you get the manuals installed. Try data mode to get comfortable. beyond that maybe we can get together on the phone and get you up to speed. A laptop with a serial port will help make things easer, most/all new laptops lack them and you end up with a USB to serial converter. This also should be easy but sometimes~~~

Rich

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05 FLHTCUI

 

First thing is you should do is get the service ticket they wrote and find out if they did the install. If they did, follow Horn's comments. Very detailed. If they didn't install take it back and make some noise.

Warren

 

I teach the tuner and use it dailey and I can tell you that the a/f/r table is of little use to. The ve tables are where you do the most of your tuning. If you send me the map they loaded I will tweak it for you and then you can re-load it. No big deal really

 

thanks for all the replys.
Alot of folks recommend dyno tuning to really get it right so thats what Im going to do. With any luck I can get enough info printed out from that session to know its done right and what my engine is putting out as well. This is one thing I can say I have no clue about and would rather pay a pro to get it done the right way.
From what I understand, after the dyno tune I wont have to worry about remapping unless I change the intake or exhaust in the future,