The AFX from NGK would not be a first choice. I had the opportunity to use one about a month back. The instructions were odd(as they wanted the sensor place farther back on the exhaust than what should be for optimal readings), and the range of the sensor was not like a standard Bosch LSU wideband. The afr reading ended up being off by over 2 points when compared to a calibrated BOSCH sensor. It would read around 11, when in reality the af mixture was just under 13.
If you haven't gotten it yet, I would seriously consider returning it and picking up the WEGO2. Most places that sell the Wego sell it for around $350 online, its only a $50 difference, it comes with a known quality wideband sensor and has data logging abilites too.

 

I noticed that the placement of the sensor seemed to be a bit off on the NGK setup, but I think they geared the directions more toward automotive applications with more exhaust to play with. I also wondered if you just compaired the NGK to the Bosch how would you know which one was reading correctly. It sounds to me like they would each have the same room for error.

 

No, the Bosch LSU sensors all come calibrated to within .1% accuracy from the model standard. I have a half dozen of them with low to moderate use and they all read within the factory specifications all of which are free air calibrated on a weekly basis. They can be placed right next to the exhaust port without fear of overheating them. And the proper place to install them is right next to the exhaust port too, thats how you get the most accurate reading. I would pass on that NGK unit, just doesnt seem to fit the bill.

 

I did a little research and found that the NGK unit comes with a Bosch sensor do to some contactual agreement

 

They may be using a "Bosch" sensor, but there is no telling what standards its mfg. to or how its been altered from the industry standard. A standard Bosch Wideband sensor reads from 10-19:1 the AFX reads from 9-16:1, and is highly sensitive(and can be easily damaged) to heat and placement. Its not one I would recommend, and its shown to be off in accuracy compared to some standard calibrated sensors. I don't even think its suitable for motorcycles at all, maybe for automotive applications which have very long exhaust pipes.

Personally, I don't know why we're are debating this subject. I gave my opinion, I think you should return it while you have the opportunity and pony up for the unit thats used by many professionals and is proven to be very accurate and easy to use. Want to take a chance on it and keep it? Fine, end of subject. Only talking $50 difference, why penny pinch on your expensive ride?

 

MegaHD man

I've been reading your posts for some time now before joining and the idea you put across is that your way is always the only correct way to do things and with only the equipment you suggest as being the best. All other equipment is simply not as good in your opinion. I respect your opinion with most topics for what it is , an opinion, however you should realize that your way is not the only way or the only correct way of doing things and others have differing opinions and ways of doing things. If you were to put your ideas or opinions in a less confrontational way, perhaps you ideas would recieve a warmer reception. This is of course MY opinion and should be taken for what it is worth.

 

Believe me, I know there are many ways to skin a cat. I am for every way that works PROPERLY too. Pretty simply put, I recommend what I've used that has work as advertised, I don't recommend what doesn't work work, or works with potential issues. The AFX wasn't what I would call a good working product. It had numerous issues the few times I had to use and tinker with it. Its not an overly complicated device, it basically needs to do one thing right, and thats give back a fairly accurate a/f readout. It ended up not being very accurate, and it was surprisingly sensitive to sensor location. So I'm not going to recommend it, when there are better products available. As for my demeanor, I don't feel the need to sugarcoat all my sentences, I get straight to the point, and do it with looking at the issue from a technical standpoint for the most part. Issue with that? Sorry you feel that way, but its out of my control. I type what I feel is correct for the benefit of others. They can take my word's worth however they want to. Ill leave the feel good "Kum-ba-ya" group songs for other members. I realize that there are alot of "please" and "thank you" type folks on these message boards, I'm just not one of them. Its not my nature, and I don't feel that I need to apologize for it. [sm=boosign.gif][sm=drlove.gif][sm=icon_blah.gif]

Now, just so people dont think I'm just picking on one product, Ill toss another afr meter I dont like either. Its actually the basic WEGO(same company that makes the WEGOII, Daytona Twin Tec), the one without the display. You need to use an auto meter style guage to read the a/f ratio. There are some that use analogue dials, some that use LED's. None of them give the ability for real accurate tuning. I like the digital lcd display thats built into the WEGOII. There are also a number of cheaper a/f meters that used limited narrow band 02 sensors on the market also, not a fan of those since the range is only from about 13-14.7:1 Many times the a/f tuning needs to dip well into the 12:1 range and even a bit lower for WOT or heavy load situations.

 

I have a 2000 road glide that has some popping when I decelerate203 cams powercommander,K@n ,thunderhead exhust .It starts and idles good othere then the occasional popping .Is it worth messing with it?

[IMG]local://upfiles/3159/51FEB3D360024F7A91986301E772CD20.jpg[/IMG]

 

so the basic guy can remap it with just playing in data mode to learn the program?