Ok Guys,

I have been trying to use the data part of the SERT to do some tuning. I have read the manual and read a bunch on here. I went out and did a run with the laptop hooked up and did a 2nd gear from 2000 RPM to around 5500 RPM with WOT and then did a 3rd gear run from 2000 RPM to around 5500 RPM . The front cylinder had a real little 2 degree knock retard at around 3650 RPM for 2data frames then dropped of quickly to 0 within 12 data frames. The MAP load was at 102.6 the VE in the front was 108%.

The bike is running a little lean according to the plugs and the bike feels a little sluggish on the 3rd gear pulls and 4th gear pulls are even worse.
I am pretty comfortable adjusting the maps and loading the maps but looking at the data and trying to decide which way to go confuses me. I have read in the manual that anything above 5 degrees knock retard you should decrease the timing a little but I dont have that problem. Should I try advancing the timing a little across the board ? If I read the manual correct that may also help my fuel mileage as well. I really just need some guidelines on what numbers to look for and correct.

The bike is a 06 roadglide with 95" kit with 203 cams, SE air cleaner and Rhinehart True duals if that helps. Thanks for any suggestions and meanwhile I will go and read some more.

 

roady

dont touch the timeing just yet.
have you maxed out the clb tables accross the board.
If you have look at the o2 integrator values, 100% is spot on, higher is lean and lower is rich. When you set up for the data run you have to choose the o2 feedback as an option.
If you advance the timeing (increment the values) it makes the engine more susceptable to knock.
If you need to loose the knock increase the VE cell value where the knock occurs first. Pick the cell where it is worst and increase by 1 unit (0.5) this will make that area run a little richer.

 

oops sorry may not apply, does your bike have the o2 sensors?

 

WildBill,

No CO2 sensors for me. I think I have read so much much about this SERT I have confused myself more. I do know that I need to richen the bike up some because of burning a little lean not much but a little. I know the knock sensors only kicked in that one little time. The manual does give the one example for increasing mileage if you have no excessive reading from the knock sensors by advancing the timing. If I advance the timing does that make the bike run leaner ? The last time I checked the mileage on the bike it was about upper 30 mpg. I really am not concerned about mileage as much as getting the bike running better. I appriecate any help provided.

 

Roady....been wanting to do some data runs with my laptop as well. Dumb question. .. Did you strap the laptop on the seat of go with a bag and leave lid unlatched? Been wondering how to do this myself, but dont want to trash my new Dell laptop...lol

 

My first ride I put in the saddlebag and was able to close the lid but I think it got to hot in there and shut down. My second run I strapped it to the luggage rack of sissy bar with bungee's and when I got back and opened the lid of the laptop the screen said crytical hard drive failure. I powered laptop off and booted it back up and everything was ok. I only got about half of the the run I tried to record and it was still there so that was good. I think vibration must off got to it. Next time i will sit it on the seat and try it or it will be back in the saddle bag or a backpack.

 

To get rid of knock, increase fuel in that cell or retard timing in that area only, advancing timing will make the knock worse.

 

Thanks WildBill I will change it in that area only. Where should I start with running lean problem. Is there a way to look at the data to see where it is running lean at ?

 

I am not familar with using the SERT without o2 sensors, but I suspect the following may be correct.

Firstly I am guessing that you have no CLB tables and no area of the map showing closed loop, so you dont need to worry about that.

I have to say that to get spot on I think you will need to dyno with an exhaust sniffer, although with patience you should be able to get pretty good by feel.

I would suggest that you dont worry about testing the bike at WOT and heavy accelleration just yet, get it running how you want it under normal operating conditions. Warm the bike up for 5 mins or so hook up your laptop(I found the rucksac the dealer gives with a new bike to be just right and results in less shock being transferred to your puter). Then perform some nice steady acceleration runs through the gears, also do some constant speed runs in various gears, and various speeds. If you feel the motor searching, then that is a pretty good indication of a lean condition. You can narrow this down by finding where this is worst and holding speed constant for say 30 second to a minute. This will allow you to identify that area when you look at the data as the speed on the graph will flatline for the duration you maintained that speed. You can then look to increase fuel in those areas identified. But remember easy does it, a little at a time.

Once you have it running right here then start to check for any rich areas, although I suspect that you wont find any. This time during the data run I would WOT from various speeds in various gears. An over rich area should stand out as a lag or slight delay, and in some cases visable exhaust emissions.

I think somewhere around 14.1:1 is good for cruising areas and will give good mpg.

If you let me know what canned map you are using I will see if I can make sense of it. I am guessing that you will be using something like map #57, for 25 deg injectors with upgraded intake and exhaust. If I am right I think I would start by changing all the 14.2, 14.3, 14.4values shown on the AFR tables to 14.1 which will richen thins up a little and should lower temps without killing your mpg, and start from there. Lookiing at you options I would definately concentrate on the AFR tables first. If you alter too many things at once you wont know what worked and what didnt.

good luck

 

WildBill,
I am not using a canned map. I had the bike dynoed about 1 1/2 years ago and got a copy of the map. I am not sure what it started out as but if you give me a email address or teach me how to post it here I will send it to you or post it. Thanks for helping me out.