I originally posted this question in the General section because it may not be model or year specific, but it was recommended that I ask here as well.

Bike is an '07 ultra w/ true duals and hi-flow intake; no other engine mods.
~25K miles.
Recent repairs/upgrades include a new battery, IAC valve, neutral switch, & rear brake switch.
Bike does not have a security system.
Lights are all LED (2+ years w/o issue).
Has taller bars; the wire extensions were done right with staggered, soldered connections, with heat shrink on all connections after filing down the "solder ball" to remove any burs or sharp points.
Been 2+ years of trouble-free operation, so I do not believe the bar wiring is causing or related to the CEL issue.

Main issue is that I have a constant CEL with no codes.
I have a few hundred miles on it since the last codes were cleared (new neutral switch resolved that issue).
Any advice as to the next steps on where to look, what to look for, etc.
The fact that there are no codes really throws me for a loop.

 

I'm just guessing here , but how old is your battery ? Maybe have it load tested , check your voltage readings . These two links will guide you through the process .

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...sting-1-a.html

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...sting-2-a.html

Have you tried resetting your ecm ?

With the run/stop switch on, turn the ignition on and then off three times., wait approx 5 sec in between cycles .

Just read the other thread , I see there it was recommended to try an ecm reset and you put in a new battery . Have you checked both ends of the battery cables , make sure they are clean and tight . Also , check the fuse box , relays etc for corrosion , clean it up with some electrical contact cleaner , might solve the problem .

 

Battery is brand new. Installed last weekend. Fires the bike up quickly.
This issue existed on the old battery as well, so it's probably not battery related.

Voltage while cruising is above 14 on the gauge, so I believe the charging circuit is good.
I'll reset the ECM and see what happens.

 

how are you checking for codes?
not being a smart ***, serious question.
m

 

I'm looking for codes by holding the trip button in while turning on the ignition.
Needles sweep and it enters diagnostic mode.
All modules return either "no resp" or "none".

I've heard mention of current/active codes vs historic codes, but I have also been told that both types will appear using the above method unless/until they are either cleared by the clear function or the system cycles enough counts without a repeat condition occurring (misfire, for instance).

Is there more to it than this?

 

Another serious question— is your kill handlebar run/stop switch in the run position when checking for codes?

 

there are hard codes and soft codes. some can be displayed and some need a scan tool. some can be reset and others not, must go through so many cycles without repeat. a soft code will not set a code, just lets you know something has crossed the thresh hold but not timed out. a good example of this is an O2 sensor. the ecu expects to see a varying signal but sometimes the signal is lazy, sets the light but swings back before the window times out and sets a hard code. another issue could be EMI like from wires run parallel that should not and could be from spark plug emf, these insert a spike into the system and the computer is stupid as to what it is.
only way to tell is for a deep scan from a dealer or a scanner than can.

 

Good catch.
I just redid the test ensuring that the run/kill switch was ON.
P0117 code appeared in th P module.

I replaced the head temp sensor about a year ago as the bike was slow to start when cold. The new sensor seemed to correct that issue.

There is additional info that MAY be relevent to identifying the root cause.
This has occurred about 3-4 different times, all with the same conditions and symptoms.

While driving in heavy traffic or on windy roads at slow speeds for extended periods of time, the neutral light would come on while in gear.
I know I was still in gear, as I had throttle response to the rear wheel.
Each time I was at first able to tap or put pressure on the shift lever to make the light go out.
Each time it would return on within a few minutes, eventially resulting in a code b1155 (neutral switch triggered for more than 60 seconds at speeds exceeding 10mph) & CEL.

I learned from the first couple of times that if this happens, then it would cause the bike to not start (no power to starter) until after the bike had cooled down (maybe 10 minutes).

The last time that it happened, I also got code P0117 (ECM over temp).
Since then I replaced the neutral switch, IAC (unrelated), rear brake switch (unrelated), and the battery (probably unrelated).

I have followed both the code check/clear & ECM reset procedures.
When I start the bike now, the light is not present initially, but comes on after a few seconds w/ the P0117 code remaining/returning.

As mentioned, I replaced the head temp sensor last year due to poor cold starts.
I think the next step is to test for 5V at the leads to the sensor.

 

Thanks for helping to clarify the difference between active and historical (hard & soft) codes , etc.
I'm going to test the voltage to the temp sensor. If it is 5V, I'll probably swap the old sensor back in for comparison.
If that voltage is less than 5V, then it's probably time to take it in for a scan and proper diagnosis.

 

if you have gremlins, start with connections. even the weather packs can allow moisture in and all it take is a little corrosion to throw codes that are not consistent. a good product to use is stabilant 22 in the alcohol base. i use it in electronics. VERY expensive though but it works.