Bike failed today's longer ride. Here are today's code for your ponderment:

P1632 - Odometer learned up
B2262 - (been having this issue even with previous owner; she had it repeatedly services for this issue, but it comes back. Just adding it to the list in case any of you experienced it. And to just give you something else to think about!)
B2272 - BCM or speedometer voltage high

So from a fuel standpoint, the bike ran awesome. The changing of the fuel filter etc improved performance. However, we now suspect the real is electronic in nature. The core symptom is the same: high revs at idle and wants to die on take off. Fortunately today, it didn't sputter and die (in thanks to the fuel system related fixes) and I was able to ride through the problem. Eventually the revs go back to normal, and bike behaves fine. Jim rode behind me and noticed my taillights and brake lights acting funky. Brake lights would be on when I hadn't even used them, then go off, run okay and then come on going down the road. Is it possible the B2262 code is the culprit with that? Did notice that when I after using my left blinker, the bike started acting up again.

Jim is now researching the BCM to see if it could be bad, or if there is a short somewhere causing the BCM to do bad things. :-)

Can't wait to hear your thoughts!

 

Seems B2262 is you front brake switch malfunctioning , I would check for damaged wires along that route as well as pinched wires at the switch housing , the connector for loose or broken pins etc . Could possibly be a broken wire in the bundle at the neck , noticed you said it would act up when signalling , not sure .

P1632 could be a number of different things , iac , speed sensor , temp sensor , crank sensor etc , start checking those , connectors and wiring . You can pull the speed sensor on the transmission and give it a wipe down , same with the crank sensor .

Things I'm wondering about are the temp sensor and ignition switch . I know the ignition switch can corrode up on the inside , which could cause some electrical issues . Some come be taken apart and cleaned , but not sure about yours , you could however check the connections and make sure they're good .

I have to apologize , I'm no expert when it comes to electronics , just trying to help you out , brain storming , you could say .

 

Jim did some research and he found that the voltage regulator could be the culprit. He tested it this morning and it is throwing too many volts. We're going to replace that and see if that fixes the issue. Wish us luck!

 

While testing Jim did discover that the stator doesn't seem to be functioning properly either. So he's going to replace that as well. Although resistance between terminals is good, it is showing continuity between terminals and good ground, which is where it fails because it should not have continuity in that test. As well, the voltage regulator at idle is showing 13.2 volts and when revved to 2000 rpms it is showing 16 volts. Limit should not exceed 14.5 volts.

Additionally, we looked through the receipts the previous owner provided. The ECU, BCM and regulator had already been replaced back in 2016 timeframe. Seems even more logical that something else was causing them to go bad aka the stator!

What sucks is the voltage regulator is easy to replace; stator...not so much.

Looking forward to feedback.

 

Before replacing either reg or stat , do the tests in the link , sounds like you got it figured out , but link 2 has a test to rule out your stat , hope it's only the reg as well .

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...sting-1-a.html

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...sting-2-a.html

 

Sounds like you got a big one.. Stator shorted to ground is very bad. The speedometer/BCM over voltage is definitely a bad sign. It can blow out the the whole electrical system. I'd also go through and make sure that all major ground connections are good. A bit of a pain but you can identify them all in the wiring diagram. Grounds like ECM/BCM/regulator/battery, frame and motor.

 

Thanks for providing those two links. Jim viewed them and verified they were the same tests he did, so unfortunately, it appears both the regulator and stator are in need of replacement.

 

Yes, it sucks we have to deal with replacing the stator and are hopeful that it will just be the regulator that has been compromised this time. Jim will go through the ground connections as you suggested. Thanks for your feedback!

 

Jim pulled out the stator and it was definitely fried. I've attached a pic. Holy cow that's a big pic!

Reviewed the receipts again and found out that at the same time (early 2016) as the voltage regulator, the ECU and the BCM were replaced, so was the stator! So now we're thinking something is causing the stator to go bad because this will end up being stator number 3! Dug further into the previous owner receipts and saw that a Screaming Eagle Compensator was installed in December 2014.

We've installed the new stator, but I'm concerned it may do the same thing. Part no. for the NEW stator we installed: CE-8010-08. The part no. for the compensator: 42200064A.

I've looked through stator issue threads and it seems like it's a tough thing to diagnose! Looking forward to your thoughts.

 

Hoping someone here can help you out with your concerns , not experienced enough to diagnose why the stator would have burned out like that . The only thing I can tell you , is that a bad voltage regulator can take out a stator in a hurry if not taken care of right away , and vise versa from what I understand .


Since you have the primary cover off , I would make sure the oil deflector was installed on the outer primary cover , without that , it is possible the compensator is overheating due to lack of oil , which could be causing your stator to burn out , Idk .