Alright Gurus,

2011 FLHX (12500 miles) won't start. Key fob battery is new; battery is good; terminals are tight; WOW test is good (gages sweep and all applicable lights light up); only code is a U1040 (think that's an ABS code); fuel pump primes; bike in neutral and it cranks but doesn't light off. When I tested the ignition coil it was 6.2K ohms between the main (only) terminals. I checked the plug wires and both were in the 4k ohm (short) and 6K ohm (long) range. All fuses are good. I pulled the fuel pump fuse, removed both spark plug wires form the plugs, pulled each spark plug and spark tested against the cylinder,...and only the front cylinder gets spark. I did swap the plug wires for new ones and swapped out spark plugs (gapped to .040) and I even changed the ignition coil and the same thing with only the front spark plug sparking when I hold it against the jug and crank the starter. I rode the bike one day last week, filled up the bike with gas (91 octane 100%) and parked it. Went to ride again a week later and it just won't start. WTF? Where oh where should I look next?

-Flybum

 

Fuel pressure.

 

I don't have a fuel pressure tester. So I removed the injectors from the manifold and cranked the engine...injectors spray. I am still only getting spark to the front cylinder, sometimes, and non to the rear cylinder. I check spark by holding the spark plug against the cylinder. I checked the resistance of the crank position sensor and it was at 1K ohms. Again, the only code the bike is displaying is U1040 which I think is an ABS code. And that makes sense because I found a broken wire for the ABS sensor on the front left brake. But that won't have anything to do with the bike not starting.

Again, no codes for anything to do with ignition system.

How likely is it that I got a bad part from J&P? It was a V-Twin Power brand ignition coil.
Is 1K Ohms the correct reading for the crank position sensor?
Is there another test I can perform on the crank position sensor?
What else am I missing?

 

If you have spark and fuel on one cylinder, it should at least fire on one cylinder. Does the rear cylinder have compression and when testing for spark is the rear plug installed? Tried squirting a little fuel into the intake?

 

both cylinders have compression when testing for spark. I tried checking by only removing one spark plug at a time and also with both spark plugs removed. Seems the front cylinder will give me spark every other time I test and the rear has no spark. I did not try squirting any fuel down the intake.

it’s just weird AF. I rode the bike 80 miles, topped off the tank, rode the 6 miles to the house and parked it. The bike had zero issues when I rode it. A week later, this crap.

 

The rear cylinder plug needs to be installed if you want spark on either cylinder.

 

BITCHIN!! I'll try that. If that gets me spark on both, then I'm back to fuel. If you disconnect the fuel line from the injector manifold, will fuel free flow (mine did) or does the pump need to be running for fuel to come out there? Maybe the internal fuel line to the quick disconnect fitting has come loose or is cracked? BTW, thank you for taking time out of your day to help me out.

 

If the valve is working correctly on the bottomed of the tank, when the ignition is turned on, you shouldn't get any gas. The valve should be closed. I've had em leak tho. Fuel pump should be on for a few seconds at "key or R/S on" and whenever the ECM detects crank moving though the CKS. If you are not getting the full 60 psi to the injectors you may have problem starting.

BTW if while cranking you get a pop but no start, you might have the plug wires backwards.

 

Appreciate the direction. Won’t mess with it any more this evening though. I’ll probably get back into it tomorrow or Tuesday evening and let you know what I come up with.

 

Max,


I have replaced the key fob battery and fully charged the bike battery. Static voltage is 12.7vdc and drops to 10.85vdc while cranking. I did like you said and made sure both jugs had a plug installed and then checked for spark while cranking. Both jugs get good steady spark. Also verified that the plug wires were going to the correct jugs IAW manual. I did pull the injectors and checked that they are spraying on crank. Here is the video of fuel pump operating. I don’t have a pressure gauge. The bike does have a reverse kit installed and there is a “kill” switch on the reverse shift lever that kills the engine if you try to put the bike in 1st while the reverse is engaged. I check that as well and the switch is operating properly. Otherwise, the bike would even crank. I have not opened the tank yet. That probably where I’m at unless you can think of something else. Thank you.

-Fybum