Looks like I'm on my own. I have no experience with diagnostics or electrical stuff. I have taken my bike to 2 mechanics and both say it's fixed. 2011 Dyna Street Bob, 28,000 miles. Engine cutting out while riding, like I hit the kill switch. I can always start it by pulling in the clutch and hitting the start button while I'm still rolling (so far). Also, not priming when I turn on the ignition with run switch on (sometimes), when it does this I can toggle the run/stop switch and it will prime and start as normal. Anyone recognize these symptoms? It's intermittent, like every other day, every other week, every other month. Random. I'm picking my bike up from the shop, they say they can't find anything wrong with it. I know I'll have to start from the ignition and work my way through to see what's up. Just wondering if anyone else has had these problems. I have ridden this bike 10 years and this is something new, something I have to find and fix. Thanks for any advice or help you can provide.

 

Does it cut out while under power or coasting?
When it doesn't prime is it the initial power up, or does it prime initially and you cycle it and it doesn't prime a second time?
Have you noticed any speedometer erratic behavior or signals not cancelling?
Do you have a tach - if so what is the idle?
Above answers will help (reasons may not be obvious but they will rule certain things out), but one thought I have is the system relay or it's connection may be getting flakey.

 

It cuts out while at cruising speed and light throttle, also once when I took off from a stop at a red light. Once when I downshifted from 5th to 4th, all over the place. It has even cut out when it was idling in neutral. It doesn't prime when I first turn on the ignition but only sometimes. I always keep the run switch in the on position. I have to either turn the ignition on and off or cycle the run/stop switch to get it to prime. I don't have a tach (but plan on getting one). I forgot to mention that it has no codes but had a historical code of P1006. Also installed a 2" riser on my bars about 2 months before this all started.

 

Check ur voltage regulator.

 

Thank you for the replies. I will check the system relay and the voltage regulator. I'll report back when I find the fix!

 

Just some info to help you:
1) If it were the Bank Angle part of the TSM/TSSM it would require a power on/off to reset - it would not start just by pulling in the clutch and hitting the start button. It may also say "tIP" in the odometer window (unless it's a specific kind of internal fault)
2) It doesn't act like a Crank Position Sensor.
3) Question on speedo and signals was because a flakey speed sensor will mess with the IAC and cause stalling - ONLY IN IDLE AND COAST DOWN/NO THROTTLE POSITIONS. This typically will restart by pulling in clutch and hitting start, but will not cause a no prime condition.
4) A faulty IAC will do the same as #3 - this is why i was trying to see if you are on or off the throttle.
5) Unless my memory is failing, the pump priming at key on requires system relay (I believe the relay could also cause all the other issues.
6) A voltage regulator that spikes high can shut down components, Have you had any bulbs burning out.
7) If this happens again, use Speedometer Diagnostics to pull the codes.
8) Were any wires pulled, pinched or cut with the riser install?
9) A bad ignition switch would typically require cycling/jiggling - it typically would not restart just by pulling clutch and hitting start button. I suppose this is possible, but symptom wise seems unlikely.
10) From your description, when it stalls, it still has gauges/lights - correct?

 

Thank you for info and taking time to help me work this out:
Good to know about the BAS, as that was on my list to possibly replace.
I have had no problems with lights or speedo. I did have a problem a few years ago with my rear turn signal kept blowing bulbs but I found the broken ground wire and soldered it and that fixed it.
I cleaned the IAC and throttle body with cleaner and replaced the air cleaner, which made the bike idle better but didn't help my problem.
I've tried to pull codes a few times, but nothing shows. The historical code of P1006 was pulled by the first mechanic (dealership) and he replaced my fuel regulator and fuel filter and said it was fixed... it was not, as I found out on my way home from the dealership.
I wondered about the wires in the bars after I installed the risers too, but my problems didn't start until a few months after install... wouldn't the issue start right after the install? I barely moved the bars to install the 2" risers.
Yes, when it stalls the gauges and lights seem to be working fine.

I have ordered a new voltage regulator and system relay. Will install as soon as they arrive and report back.
Thank you so much Ed Ramberger!

 

You're welcome, just throwing out thoughts based on your posts.

Personally I would hold off on the VR due to cost and that's just throwing parts at it and as stated above I don't see how that would prevent a fuel pump prime at key on.. You should perform diagnostics on it. Also, they typically fail when hot.

 

Yes, was hoping the last shop would do the diagnostics but they are not interested in a lil' ole lady and her 10 year old bike, When I tried to tell them what it was going on it was like talking to a wall, in one ear and out the other. I thought I would try the system relay first, then the VR if necessary. I know I may be throwing parts at it, but I'll take that chance, as long as one of these things fixes the problem, I'll be happy!

 

Hello Angel, I just registered on the forum because I have exactly the same problem as you, cuts are frequent and I have to do the same manipulation as you to restart. I have a 2002 Electra Glide with an alarm. I can not find the problem, my only solution I have left is to change the TSSM for a TSM (without alarm) because I think it is the alarm system which messes up and cuts off the ignition. .