I figure I can use the global timing adjustment on the fly through the pv and that way I can either add or subtract advance to get an idea which way works best.

In other news I went back to the maps for the bike that were provided for me from Fuel Moto as well as a canned map from DJ and my jaw dropped. I mean there is barely any differences in those from stock and it makes me wonder if there was any improvements at all over stock. It sure never felt like it.

 

Went out and ran it on that tune and whoa! It runs pretty damn good! I am thinking I need several auto tune sessions with it to smooth out the ve table. It’s all kinds of off. Making large adjustments I only ran it for a few miles but hit a large portion of the tables for corrections. It’s getting too cold here now but should be warmer tomorrow I think.

 

Well I tried another map. Added more timing. It it much better bike runs a touch cooler too. I think I am going to leave it this way and then run a few auto tune sessions on it. It pulls really nice from about 1800 and up no lag doesn’t ping and just overall feels happy. It’s pretty close to a DJ map with a tad less timing in some areas to make sure it is smooth.

 

Too little advance will sure cause heat and lots of it. It'll be sluggish too. You want to run as much advance as possible without detonation. No two bikes are identical in timing needs as there's a lot of variables that affect it including temp and sea level.
Maps from FM/DJ are nothing more than base maps. Starting points. Also, knock detection in PV doesn't work. Never has. Neither does the crank tooth setting which is important and not available to you because it doesn't work. If your MAP at idle is more than mid to upper 30s kPa, you'll never get a good tune.
I would use TTS Mastertune before PV any day. It was made by the same guy responsible for helping develop Harley's Delphi EFI. He knows how it works way better than dynojet.

 

I did notice it does at least have some sort of method of counting knock events or at least logs them. Of course I have gotten it to be so few that it never appears to retard the timing. It runs good and yes I absolutely agree it’s a good starting point and it doesn’t seem to be in jeopardy of damaging anything as it sounded before I started this process. Even when new the bike pinged so much I was scared to ride it. That’s what got me started with the whole mess.

Now I am in NC and it’s cold here the past couple of days so I have ridden it at this elevation which is quite a bit different than New Orleans at sea level. Previously it was idling hot around 44kpa I have yet to check it since being here at about 1000ft.

 

44kPa @ idle is too high and indicative of a base map with the wrong crank tooth setting. A setting not available to you with PV.

 

Even at sea level or even slightly below? That’s what I read when I was In New Orleans.

 

sportster will give that reading @ idle, probably due to what 60gunner said... reading is taken at the wrong time.
bigger motors will read a much lower KPA at idle...

 

That advance at 80-100 kpa will give you trouble, you're running WAY too much advance there.

I did a 2019 1200 sporty the other day on the dyno, usual stage 1, the bike was flashed on the dealer with a stage 1 map. It had like 6-7 degrees more than the engine wanted in the WOT area, the timing map was just stupid as best.

The timing was so way past MBT than the engine picked up 10 horses by pulling timing in the higher areas, it wasn't pinging badly mainly because the fuel quality over here is awesome but that engine on a bad gas tank would be catastrophic, actually the engine had evidences of running REALLY HOT, up to the point that the powdercoat was chipping near the spark plugs, this was a bike with less than 10k miles, customer also stated that her ***** were burning in summer when doing in-town riding.

Tuning spark advance without a dyno can end very bad, and even more with sportster that lacks proper detonation/autoign sensors. (The CAN sportster do detect knock but the ECM doesn't pull any timing, atleast based on my experience)

 

I believe his bike is an 883 as is mine. I can say that I did not run quite as much timing near wot. I am about three degrees less. Near the redline not that I spend much time anywhere near that part of the map for any length of time. I am most concerned with the cruise and roll on and it seems to be pretty close.

I have noticed after I ran a couple auto tune sessions the bottom end did not seem as responsive but I haven’t had the time to look to see how much it changed things.