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  #11  
Old 08-11-2020, 09:58 AM
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oh - and this might be just me talking out of my ****, but I do believe that when cranking the engine the main table is the one that is used - in your case it would be 3 degrees advance on cranking... I normally put zeroes in there, I think it makes the engine fire up easier. It will accept even (small) negative numbers in there.
 
  #12  
Old 08-11-2020, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by b0fh
oh - and this might be just me talking out of my ****, but I do believe that when cranking the engine the main table is the one that is used - in your case it would be 3 degrees advance on cranking... I normally put zeroes in there, I think it makes the engine fire up easier. It will accept even (small) negative numbers in there.
I don't have that separate idle timing but I'm also using the SE Pro Super Tuner. 2013 FLSTC 103".
I notice a lot of maps running negative numbers in that low rpm 80 - 100map area. I'll get to that area too.
Just bumped advance a little in the low map/low rpm and fixed that dip in advance in the WOT area and see how it responds.
What sort of max advance in the WOT are you running and how soon does it come on? Mine comes on late. Never pinged on the dyno but maybe why it seemed to run out of steam at 5300 rather than 5700ish I expected with these cams? Or my stock head pipes maybe.
My numbers weren't too bad (91/101)considering it was a 4th gear pull running SE 204 timing untouched and still breathing crankcase gases at that time. That alone has been proven to cost 2 to 3hp across the board.
No dips in torque and started out at 93ft.lbs at 2200. I was pretty happy and pleasantly surprised given the tune. Thinking it's more like 95ft.lbs off the line now conservatively. I'm not really a numbers chaser but it's a good way to gauge the tune by comparing the numbers to FMs. When I'm done, I'm going do another pull and see how I did. Feels stronger and smoother. Realistically probably only picked up 2 or 3 hp and 3 or 4ft.lbs. but that puts me right where I should be. My below 3000rpm numbers were slightly better than FMs. They were running their E series exhaust if I recall and had a little reversion and slight dip in torque down there.

The other thing I'm wondering about is I'm now running a 30 tooth solid eliminator from Evolution Industries. How much will that improve performance given I lost over 6lbs. off the end of my crank losing that compensator not to mention the lag associated with it.
 

Last edited by 60Gunner; 08-11-2020 at 03:46 PM.
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  #13  
Old 08-12-2020, 07:45 AM
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Here's the #s... I had a lot of pinging (audible!) with this curve in mid-load, low RPM so I had to dial it down a bunch in that area (basically make it retard earlier when throttle is hit). it is ping-free now (even on logs) - take it with a grain of salt tough, as my fuel is wildly different from yours - its a mix of 75% bad gas with 25% ethanol.



 
  #14  
Old 08-12-2020, 12:06 PM
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Well ours will differ some but you look pretty retarded in the WOT. I'm pretty satisfied with mine after some painstaking tweaking/logging/tweaking of a FM base map for the 555s. which are nearly identical to my 570s. Mostly in areas of little concern but some lower rpm cruise too. I'll post them when I get home.
 
  #15  
Old 08-12-2020, 07:33 PM
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  #16  
Old 08-12-2020, 08:28 PM
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interesting... my WOT would actually be between the 90 and 95 (altitude) but stll way more retarded than yours. will try adding some degrees at the right side.
 
  #17  
Old 08-13-2020, 03:54 PM
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use the record data function and review the recording and you will be able to see exactly what your timing is at idle speeds and at what temp. i would use that data (you should be able to view a printed out graph of the data) as my point of reference and set it to what you want.
m
 
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