Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
Yeah, I didn't realize at first that the engine wasn't turning all the way over, and the compression I was hearing was in the front cylinder only. Only after I discovered the missing screw did I do more extensive turning and learned it would only go 355° or so. I didn't buy new valves or a head today. I'm going to buy a complete used head from a salvage operator.
Originally Posted by Dan89FLSTC
This (excerpt from post #6) seemed to make it clear that the problem was not mechanical...
Actually, post #1 showed it was when he was pushing the bike and the engine would stop and the tire would skid. After continuing to beat the screw into the head by continued cranking and turning in 5th gear, bolt was so far embedded that the piston could clear it again. OP was told more than one time that something was in the cylinder but continued to guess and make it worse. After all that pounding, he will never know if a rod bearing took a hit and already has it's death sentence written. This was the equivalent of beating the bolt into the head using the crank/rod/piston as a hammer.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; 08-06-2020 at 03:19 PM.
Actually, post #1 showed it was when he was pushing the bike and the engine would stop and the tire would skid. After continuing to beat the screw into the head by continued cranking and turning in 5th gear, bolt was so far embedded that the piston could clear it again. OP was told more than one time that something was in the cylinder but continued to guess and make it worse. After all that pounding, he will never know if a rod bearing took a hit and already has it's death sentence written. This was the equivalent of beating the bolt into the head using the crank/rod/piston as a hammer.
The screw was embedded in the head when the engine was running. That's how the valves were bent also. From the time the engine was shut off until it came free again, the only "hammering" was with the starter against the blocked engine. Since there was no motion, there was no hammering. The purpose for trying the starter was to take voltage tests suggested by other posters. I only discovered the starter was not the problem when I reversed the rotation of the crank and tried the starter, and the engine turned forward to where the screw stopped it. I tried it again and that dislodged the screw and cleared the blockage. The engine was torn down after that. There is no way those two instances did the damage to the valves, piston and head that I found.
I would take the new valves and use some medium clover lapping compound on them to just touch the seats. Go very easy and keep it neet. Just enough to hit seats and inspect for that fine gray 360 circle. Whipe off with clean dry cotton cloth and then a wet rung out liquid detergent soapy cloth followed by a dab of oil on seat. You look good on your deburr.
To me these are hobbies. It will be fine. I see no cracks in that last picture. Little one in that fourth one but it was shallow one that cleaned up.
That is not the motherships fault. That to me does not appear to be the original backing plate. In fact, the original does not put the vents into the opening. That is a silly idea. Normally, it just runs out and drips into the air filter. Appears to me someone put that on after factory. Normally, those bolts are a pain. Even on the FI throttle body, sometimes they are so stuck in Loctite, some aluminum comes out and it's always scary to use heat on it.
I was given this after someone took air box off and was afraid to reuse it.
I rebuild a Civic 4 cylinder, not long ago that the cam shaft broke where the large timing belt drives. Bolt held it on but it indexed around and bent all the valves. They drove it about 5 miles before it lost too much compression to run. By then, the pulley had gone thru the plastic cover. It all cleaned up. New valves and a cam. Parts were around $400. Runs great. Dealer wanted 6K
Only thing on it that says Screaming Eagle is the trim plate. Putting that on required only unscrewing the two outside screws. No need to have removed the three screws around the throttle body and even if someone did, there should still be evidence of threadlocker on the screws unless somebody changed them. Air cleaner backing plate with HD logo.
Is there a shade tree method for removing and replacing valve seats? The factory manual says to run a bead of weld around it, which shrinks the seat and gives you something to pry on. I can change the intake valve seat or have a valve job done on that valve. Lapping it with compound hasn't worked. Buggered intake seat
The divot is shallow, a thou or so, and I have new valves because both of them were bent.
08-06-2020, 03:13 PM
