Hi All, I bought a used '17 Softail Slim S several months ago and I am enjoying it very much. It has a Rinehart 2-1 exhaust and a Fuelpak FP3 and it runs and sounds great - with one minor hiccup.

Recently it will stall when it is just slightly warm but not fully warmed up. So when it is cold, it idles fine. Then I ride two or three blocks and get stopped at a light, and it will idle for a bit and then die. I start it and it starts right up and then does it again. Fast forward I ride a couple miles and come to a stop when it is more warmed up, and no issue, it will idle all day.

So I have not messed with the FP3 other than to use the sensor view and see what the current settings are. The map that is loaded is for a generic 2-1 exhaust. Maybe there wasn't a more specific one available when the prior owner had it. So I looked at available maps and there is a map for a Rinehart 2-1, standard baffle and high flow air filter. Seems like the ticket since the '17 has the Screaming Eagle 110 with the high flow air filter. Could a map difference cause a weird problem like I described? I have not flashed one before so I am going to read up on it before I do. It looks like there are several empty slots so if for some reason I am not happy I can just reload the map that is already there, correct?

 

Your on te right track , V&H has updated many of their maps . If there are maps that are more specific to your setup , I would try it . The program itself is very easy to use , and your right , just download and flash the new map , the old one will stay put in whatever # slot it's in . If the new map doesn't work out , just delete it and flash the new map back in . I went through 3 different maps before finding the right one . Run at least a couple tanks of gas before you do an auto tune , let the ecm learn first . There are plenty of videos the explain how to work the program or you could simply just ask here .

Once you find the map that works for you , go into the program and change the throttle progressivity to " aggressive " .

Look through the V&H support section , you'll see an area where you can upload your map to V&H and have them view it and make any necessary changes , if you need to go that route . You can also email them with questions you may have etc .

Good luck , hope you get it sorted out !

 

Thanks very much for that advice, I will load the newer map and see how that works out. I am taking a ride tomorrow so should get a good chance to test it!

 

Post your results after your ride , good luck !

 

Well I loaded the new map and took it for a nice 150 mile run. It runs very good! I could note a couple of differences - less lag from closed throttle to power on and also less decel pop and gurgles. Too early to tell if the stalling problem will persist. I ran through most of the tank so I will do another then change the throttle progressivity (which I didn't know was a thing until now) to aggressive.

One question - what is the % reading in the sensor data (on the bottom left) and how is that useful? Thanks again for the help!

 

Glad you had a good run , did it stall at all while you were out ?

Pretty sure the % symbol is the TPS ( Throttle Possition Sensor ) , that's the only thing I could see that shows a % mark , means nothing to me , so kind of a useless feature .

Run a couple tanks of gas through it and then do an auto tune if you want . Do it in 3 stages and " save " each run instead of flashing . First run should be in lower speeds ( like in city riding ) bringing your rpm's in the higher range ( for about an hour ) with lots of stop and go's , then don't flash , just save your settings . Next , run at highway speeds in 5th and 6th , then save again , every once in awhile I would pull over when safe and take off quickly until your at speed . The last run should be some quick take offs up to speed and some casual riding in normal / lower rpm range .

If you have a phone mount , you can watch the screen as it progresses from yellow to green . Don't expect all of them to turn green but a good portion will .

Small note , when you do auto tune , you will notice your bike running poorly , don't be alarmed , the auto tune will shut down most sensors until your done your 3 sessions and then complete the tune by flashing the saved data to your bike . The auto tune map will use a new slot and keep the previous map . There are plenty of videos out there explaining how to run an auto tune , but I found this one to be the best .

 

Hey MyFavRk, thanks again. No stalling this time out so maybe it is no longer an issue. Time will tell as it only does it between cold and warm - I guess you would call it lukewarm LOL.

I will do the autotune next! Looks like a pretty easy process so I am looking forward to it! Looks like there should be a link in your last post?

 

No link , but I can see why you would think so , by my wording ... Just doing some video searches will come up with some great videos on how to run auto tune as well as other tips . When you run auto tune , your better off running it with the throttle progressivity on normal , then change it to aggressive after you flash the tuned map , this will require 2 flashes , one for the auto tune and the other for the throttle change . Plug in your battery tender while flashing to keep your battery up to par or pull your headlight fuse .

 

Gotcha - I'm looking at some now - looks so easy.

 

I had a problem with my 2017 slim s. I’d ride it and it would cut out and die. Start back up no problems until it stopped starting up.

my issue was the ignition switch was bad. I could wiggle it and my bike would shut off.

easy to test. Start the bike up in neutral or just turn it on and wiggle the ignition switch really good and see if the power dies.