I will check that out as well, thanks.

 

Well sadly. the stalling continues and I spent a little time on the side of the freeway today on the way home from work. The 110 Screaming Eagle stopped screaming and was very quiet.

I updated the FuelPak map a few weeks ago and it runs great. I even reduced the burble and decel popping a bit. The only issue remains between when it is cold and fully warm. Today I had the sensor reader on and I was cruising home on the freeway, just left work and only been riding a few minutes - all good. Then got a bit of a sputter, I pulled in the clutch to gas it and it died - so I coast to the shoulder. I noticed at that time the temp sensor reading was 190. The motor had obviously warmed up some but not at regular temp yet. I start it and it starts back up and off I go, then a few more sputters while holding a steady speed - which seems worse at lower rpms. So I keep the RPMs up and keep going because it's about 95 degrees outside and I'm not going to sit on the shoulder if I can help it!

Continue freeway riding at 75 mph and the temp sensor slowly gets up to around 295 and stays around there. Usually when it is hot out that is about where it is. Then I stop at lights, it idles fine all day. No hesitation, no sputters, runs fine. The rest of the way after getting fully hot there are no issues - probably another 20 miles and it doesn't do it again.

It is like clockwork that the engine temp is directly related to this issue. There must be a sensor or something that is not working correctly. Cold it runs fine. Hot it runs fine. Only this window in between does it act up. In fact, riding to work I didn't stop for any lights before I hit the freeway and it ran flawlessly the whole way - probably was riding more aggressively in the morning so it could not act up.

I have cleaned the air filter, while I was at it I cleaned the throttle body and butterfly, it wasn't really that dirty. The bike has less than 4000 miles. Perhaps someone who knows how the warm up programming works on these can suggest where to look next?

Sorry for the long post but I wanted to provide some detail that might help with diagnosis. Thanks!

 

Sorry to hear your still having issues . Check it for error codes , wondering if maybe you have a faulty temp sensor , been known to not throw a code . Before you start buying parts , get yourself some electrical contact cleaner and some de electric grease . Check the connectors , wires and pins , clean them up and seal them with the grease . Also check the connections at other sensors as well , tps , cps , etc . A little bit of corrosion can cause false readings . Depending on where the bike is located , it should be pretty clean for it's age .

While your cleaning and checking things over , might as well clean up ( cables , both ends ) and test your battery voltage ( charging system ) .

 

Thanks for the thoughts on this, I will check all the connections I can get to. I have contact cleaner and the dielectric grease already. Ill let you know if I find anything.

No codes any time this happens, I even checked the reader right after it happened and nothing. Temp sensor is what I thought but as I watch the temp on the FP3 it steadily rises so unless there is another one, that appears to be working? The bike was in Palm Springs and So Cal since new so it has been in a very dry climate. These little intermittent gremlins can make you nuts.

From what I can see in the throttle body there is no idle air control valve on my 2017 110 - can anyone verify that? Thanks again - I will go over the connections and let everyone know if I see anything odd - I will find this gremlin!!!

Forgot to mention - charging system shows about 14.4 volts. Battery was replaced in November of last year and is always on a tender when not riding. But I am still going to check those cables.

 

Well I searched the manual and answered my own question, there is no IAC valve. There is an engine temp (ET) sensor, Temp Manifold Absolute Pressure (TMAP) sensor and heated oxygen sensors (HO2). Unfortunately the manual only says how to replace them - doesn't explain how they work or how to troubleshoot, need the electrical manual for that. If there is a throttle control actuator (TCA) problem that requires replacement of the whole induction module. But the throttle seems to be working OK at least as far as I can tell.

 

No TCA on your bike either , just the TPS , could clean up the connector and make sure it's plugged in all the way . The ecm takes information from your TGS ( twist grip sensor ) and sends it to the TPS ( throttle position sensor ) .

I was thinking ( kinda hurt ) , you could reset your ecm and see if that remedy's the problem . It will reset your idle rpm , but won't affect the installed map .

Run / Kill switch set to run , then turn on ignition , wait 10 sec and then ignition off , wait 10 sec , then repeat . You want to do this 4 times in a row .

 

OK I will give that a try - I am out of ideas at the moment.

 

Here is an optimistic update!

I sent my map to Vance and Hines and described the issue I am having. Later the same day they sent me a new map to try out.

Well I flashed it and so far no issue! It seems like they raised the idle to stay higher until the bike gets hotter. I don't know what else because they didn't say, but I did notice the idle change.

I have tried it once so I will post after a few more rides - could be a fix! Thanks all.

 

Nope - intermittent stalling and sputtering persists. Sometimes it does it, some times it does not. Sometimes it does it a little, sometimes a lot. Today riding home it stalled and sputtered and generally was obnoxious until the temp hit about 280 then no more problems. This bike is possessed.

 

Morning Jake , sorry your still having issues , no codes come up ? Just for the hell of it , pull your cps , the one next to the oil filter , give it a good cleaning and also check the connector . That connector is placed under the frame ( along with the regulator connector ) below the oil filter . Maybe they need to be cleaned , could have oil on it causing a poor connection . Usually a bad cps will give you more than you describe , rough idle , hard starts etc , but worth a try .

Not sure , did you put in a new temp sensor ? I've seen bad ones that never threw an error code , possible .