I'm hoping someone might be able to help. I searched the internet for documented issues before attempting to do this, and couldn't find anything, so I'm a little lost now and could use some help.

I have a 2010 Sportster 48. I purchased it in 2018, and it already had the power commander v installed. I decided to switch it out for the V&H Fuelpak 3 as I'm planning to change exhuast this year, and a few other things, so I wanted the ability to make changes myself, rather than having to pay a shop to install and flash.

Yesterday I installed the Fuelpak 3, while the power commander was still installed, and flashed the bike. Everything started and ran okay. I went to take out of the power commander V last night, and now the bike won't turn over or get close to starting. I reconnected all of the plugs that were plugged into the PCV wiring harness, back into the bike's wiring harness.

The battery was older, so I figured that might be contributing, as it has chugged a few times recently when starting. I replaced it with a Harley lithium battery today, the dealer said they charged it, but after 5 attempts at starting, and some work, when I went to restart it, the battery was already dead. This didn't help start the bike. It is now currently on a charger, with hopes that it will work (if not, I'm returning it and getting a replacement).

I'm now getting trouble codes like crazy. P0113, P0118, P0123. Many of them said throttle sensor, so I went and bought one, and replaced that. I'm still getting engine temp sensor (PO118), and several others.

What am I doing wrong or missing? I've been going through everything that I can to try and clear the codes, these are things that weren't an issue before. These codes were not previously showing up as issues. Since removing the harness the bike no longer turns over or starts. I've tried flashing different maps as well (stock setup that was flashed when the FP3 was setup, as well as V&H map for my setup).

I don't have anyone locally that I know that can be helpful with this. I'm trying to figure it out on my own.

 

A lithium battery usually requires a particular style of charger to charge back up to full capacity. What type of charger/ tender are you using?
Always start an electrical problem by confirming a main battery that is in good condition, a good state of charge and that it's connections are tight.
Measure the voltage across the battery terminals after recharging and having been left to settle for a while.
Typically a regular agm battery should be atleast 12.5 volts and ideally 12.7/ 12.8 volts. A HD lithium should be atleast 13.2 volts.

Some simple stuff to help confirm it is an electrical issue that is causing the no start:
Definitely confirm the battery is in good condition. Don't presume as is easy to do.
Kill switch is On.
Make sure enough fresh fuel in tank. Make sure fuel line quick connect is connected.
Check spark plug condition.
Once you have a confirmed battery that is strong enough to turn bike over, check for spark . Bear in mind that your model requires you keep the plugs in the heads and use either a spare plug or a spark tester.
If you have spark, then try a small amount of easy start spray into the induction module to see if you get any type of combustion, even if only momentarily. This isn't necessarily to resolve the issue but to try and narrow things down in a relatively quick proccess.

Sometimes easier said than done as we all want our bike to work but don't throw money at the problem by buying sensors and the like.
Try to be logical and methodical ( Unlike my ramblings here! ) even if the issue seems kinda mysterious and annoying.

If the codes don't clear it would typically indicate current (happening now) codes that haven't been resolved.
What is the exact list of codes that you have and did you retrieve them from the FP3 or the speedo?
Make a written list of the codes for future reference.
If you originally tried clearing them with the FP3, try clearing them with the speedo diagnostics procedure and vice versa.
Codes will often be prioritised as some are considered more important than others, hence recording the codes, then trying to delete, then attempting a bike start and seeing what codes remain.

Consider keeping bike on tender or charger whilst ignition is on to prevent voltage going to low. this can occasionally cause a voltage code but nothing to worry about as it can be cleared later.

I know you probably have more than once, but go back and recheck your wiring that was disturbed during the PC-5 removal. The fuel injector wiring has individual connectors for front and rear injectors and must be plugged in as such. It is easy to get them the wrong way around.
Confirm O2 sensors plugged in.
Do you hear the fuel pump prime at ignition ON for a few seconds?

Can you see live data from the FP3?
For example, can you see what temp the temp sensor is currently reading?Can you see what postion the throttle position sensor is showing, both in percentage and voltage? Does it rise smoothly and consistently when you open the throttle, even without engine running this should be visible?
What sort of readings do you get from any of the sensors related to your codes? Make some kind of note for those sensor readings.

In general, the FP3 map shouldn't prevent the bike from atleast attempting to start, even if you chose a well out of spec map as it reads the VIN of the bike to atleast get you in the ball park.
Once you've got that good battery, leave the battery charger/ tender plugged in and retry loading the saved stock map again.

 

Both batteries that were tried were good and within the correct voltage. I have been keeping them on a trickle when the electric is on to keep the voltage up.
Every connection that was unplugged because of the PCV has been replugged in multiple times. These codes are primarily throwing throttle sensor, which is why I replaced that.

I have had other codes show up, but have been able to get it down to just 3 that won't go away. The ones listed in the original post. P0113, p0118, P0123.

The fuel pump had been kicking on and off, but now only clicks, and doesn't actually turn the pump on.

The FP3 doesn't stop the bike from attempting to start. The bike cranks it just doesn't turn over.

 

sounds to me like the bike needs to go to the shop, and let them remove and install all this computer controlled crap. not trying to be hateful or nothing

 

First thing is to REMOVE the FP3. Then your back to a stock bike. Clear the trouble codes, charge the battery and leave the charger on and attempt to start the bike. You may have flooded it so you could remove the plugs and see if they are wet with fuel. If they are, allow the bike to sit with plugs removed and take the plugs over to a gas stove and under low flame heat the end of the plugs to dry them out. If that doesn't work then reinstall the PC5 unit and try again. Once you get back to running, ONLY do one thing at a time. I would start by removing the PC5 again and then see if it runs properly first. You may have a modified engine that requires tuning to a level that the FP3 cannot handle by itself.

 

To add to what Steve said - and he is 100% correct. You should not flash ecms through piggyback devices like a PowerCommander.

 

Were you able to figure out what the problem was? I am having the same exact issue with my sportster. The only difference is mine will start but runs very sluggish like it’s in limp mode. I’ve been going through everything, checking connections, voltage, wires etc. I’ve been doing a lot of research and haven’t came up with anything. I got the same three codes as soon as I took the pc5 off and installed the FP3. My next step was to reinstall the PC5 and see if the codes are still there.