I have a 1996 Harley Ultra Classic with the early Magnetti Morelli Fuel injection Module. I need to replace the fuel injectors. Does anyone in this forum know what Brand and Model Fuel Injectors that were used in this EFI module? Does anyone know what brand and model fuel injectors will work in this module and where I can purchase them? I am new to this forum and any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob

 

Hi Bob,

First thing you need to do is look at the color of the injectors. Stock EVOs came with BLACK injectors # 27218-95. If it received a Stage II it got RED injectors #27135-97. The red ones are the same as the Twin Cam Marelli EFI (Touring bikes 1999-2001).

You can use an online parts look up such as Ronnies to get the part numbers.

Injectors will probably be about 160 each. You can also look for a throttle body on ebay (there is a difference between EVO and Twin Cam (Evo has 2 larger bolt holes for the air cleaner).

If you can't find anything PM me. I can dig through my storage boxes.

One note - How did you come to the conclusion you need injectors?

 

Ed,
Thanks for your help. The injectors are Black. It's my friends MC. It sat for 3 years before he came to own it. Bike has new voltage regulator, stator, coil, wires and plugs. We have installed a new fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, Head temp sensor, throttle position sensor, cleaned tank and installed new fuel lines. TPS sensor set to 275 and Cold Idle set to 650. Bike still starts hard. Idle is good when warmed up but once you rock the throttle bike breaks up half full throttle. Once past half throttle she runs great up to full throttle. I'm thinking maybe bad injector. I was going to get injectors professionally cleaned as finding replacements are impossible. Any new thoughts based on the above?

 

See if they have them here. https://vtwincatalog.com/dl/index.ph...alog&dl_pg=279


I still think they can be found. Cold idle should be set to about 1300-1400 not 650. Hot idle should be 950-1050. I doubt injectors are only affecting one throttle position.

Also, these were not just for Harley. You can cross reference numbers to automotive.

 

Ed,
The 650 is the OHM setting on the Cold Idle Screw. Is that incorrect. Let me know what it should be.
Thanks
Bob

 

I meant a cold idle target should be 1300 rpm. I think you mean V not Ohms.

 

Ed
Yes, volts. When running and warm the idle was great. So if not the injectors what can be my issue? Any ideas?

 

Is there a powercommander on it? If you didn't clean the injectors by sending them out, I would advise running techron concentrate (complete fuel system cleaner) through the tank. Have you checked for intake leaks?

You mean the TPS is .275V with hot and cold screws backed off correct?

 

No power commander. Yes TPS is correctly set. I read that the two screws on the outside face of the throttle body that are epoxy glued in can be removed and cleaned out with MAP sensor cleaner because the interior gets gummed up and they deal with air flow. Could this be a factor in my case? Bike us 23 years old and the original owner didn't do much to keep it right and it Sat for years? With the bike running so poorly had could I install a PC?

 

Ok, some notes...
MM EFI takes a bit of experience to deal with cold vs hot idle adjustment procedures. These adjustments do not affect anything but idle.

If the bike pulls hard under higher rpms and throttle positions and only has running issues in mid rpm and throttle position areas it’s more than likely NOT the injectors. Bad injectors usually cause lean run especially at higher rpms and TPS (high demand).

Also, if the bike doesn’t have a tuning device on it adjusting the TPS for best and smoothest running rather than “by the book” is a down and dirty, yet effective way to get an otherwise crappy running bike much much better.
By adjusting the TPS you are enrichening or enleaning the entire map assuming the setting is not out of range. That said, it really helps to know how to accomplish this without causing bad fuel mileage from setting the TPS to make the entire map too rich.

If the epoxy is no longer in the screwheads then it’s been “adjusted” (or replaced) before and probably need resetting to best running.

Otherwise get the screws loose by digging out the epoxy and using the correct torx driver.

Just for sake of recovering from a fukup TP adjustment, mark the TP to throttle body position with a scribe so if you can’t get it better you can’t simply put it back where it was.
Let us know,
Bob