Wow I just had a moment. My handlebar kill switch was off! It's late, I need to go to bed haha thank you so much.




Side question: does the TPS only control fuel or fuel and timing? Im thinking can you adjust your TPS to make the bike richer or leaner to compensate for a high flow air filter. Like a poor man's stage 1?

 

It is used for both.

 

Ed, I just want to compliment you on your thorough explanation of the M&M EFI system in a Harley. Almost every time I read one of your posts I learn something new. Thanks for your contributions.

 

Thank you Sir. I appreciate that. Just really trying to help where I can.

 

Hi all!
first of all thanks a lot to all and especially Ed for the thread about Magneti Marelli i found here, already helped me a lot in terms of understanding the Magneti Marelli Industion.

I am working here on a friends 1996 FLHTCUI Lehmann Trike, its a nightmare but keeps me busy at least.

First a bit of its history:
it seems to be in egypt since its born, no idea if the trike conversion kit was installed here or in USA where it original was importet from.
it was definately played around a lot with it, my friend bought it against my advice but then turned up and needed help, there the nightmare began…
i found out that a well known „tuner“ in cairo installed S&S heads, big bore kit cam shaft etc on it in the past, but in front of me was a engine with Axtell cylinders, so no clue what else actually was done to this engine…
however, while changing the belt that broke due to loose screws on the converted pully i found the crankshaft thread completely destroyed, some idiot in the past must have been unable to open the nut and DRILLED it between nut and thread, so basically unrepairable destroyed, i have pictures if anyone is curious…
so i convinced my freimd to change the engine, found a original one on ebay usa and imported it, another nightmare but in the end it arrived and i installed it….

so now to the actual problem which existed already before with the old engine:
it runs FAR too richt, black smoke, rough idle and dark black but dry spark plugs…

what i did so far:
engine temp sensor, crankshaft position and camshaft position sensors were all changed with the „new“ engine, so if not both are broken i can eliminate any of theese…
i have the manual of the 1997 FLT where all procedures how to check are described…. I did all following the book, TPS reset, check benzin return line for blockage, check baro sensor, etc, while taking the manifold apart and cleaning it i found a faulty oring on the benzin pressure regulator so i chamged the whole regulator.
intake leaks are none, i check by spraying carb cleaner on the manifold, no change….
the 2 air screws are still sealed with epoxy, didn’t touch them
i checked the voltage regulator for unregular output… steady between 13,3 and 13,6 volts
it was a power commander installed which i removed, same rich running with or without…

so all this lead me to the point that it must be faulty TPS, injectors or ECM.
found a ECM on ebay and installed it, no change at all, so leaves TPS or injectors…. Or does anyone else have any other idea?

BTW i have no scanalyser and benzin pressure gauge…

after i read the other thread here my next step will be checking the voltage of the TPS at half and full throttle, didn’t have this values before.

even if those should be ok i think it might be a good idea to change the TPS before the injectors because it is still available new and injectors not….

any tips or new ideas are appreciated, thanks in advance

Nico

 

I assume you did the basic stuff, Load test battery, Pull any trouble codes, check battery cables on both ends, replace spark plug wires? Before you replace the TPS I would try to reset it following the instructions in this thread. Before replacing the injectors try cleaning them. Search DIY Injector Cleaner.

 

Hi guys,
i finally managed to bring a new TPS from germany and changed it…. Unfortunatelly no change to the good….
spark plus wires are new, injectors cleaned, no present trouble codes but also the procedure for pulling codes (swith on off on off etc) dosnt work but no engine check light on….
will try to post a video….

here the link to the video, hope it works…
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sp0Vjqf2y9dLxr7X1rvoJn8_sLwfHwf7/view?usp=drivesdk

 

Few things to verify and also you have an unknown build so that is an issue.

1) Does the TP sensor say PF4C on it? These sensors are extremely scarce and ther are a lof of look alikes and generics being sold. PF4C has the correct curve.
2) Were you absolutely sure the hot and cold idle screws and the ISC motor were not affecting the throttle. The throttle must be fully closed to set base TPS.
3) On a phone at the moment and didn't see your video. One of the biggies on those bikes is the ET sensor. Just making sure you got a known good one in there - says you replaced it. Was it new and did it make any difference?
4) Do you have any way to borrow a scan tool/ way to read the data values?
5) Do you have a way to borrow a tool to verify the fuel pressure?
6) The epoxy is still on the air bleeds which is good. Spray a little carb cleaner through the passages to verify they are open. You will see little holes in the bores that are the air bypass.
7) What voltage did you set the base TPS to?

The variables you have with an unknown engine could be a lot of this. It might be a situation where you have to make sure the components are good then adjust with a powercommander. Problem is you really need to make sure everything is in parameters prior to tuning.

 

Hi and thanks a lot for your feedback!
i will answer one by one…

1. no, it is from zodiac part number 747570, picture with what is printed on it will follow.
2. yes, i am sure about this
3, no, it was no new one it was installed in the used swap engine, zero difference between old and „new“ temp sensor
4. no 😕
5. also no, but i read in the manual that if the pressure is too high the return line may be clocked. I checked the return line, its free
(From my understanding only high pressure can be the reason for the problem)
6. idid that together with a full cleaning of the manifold
7. 278mV, then adjusted the cold idle to 650mV

thanks again!
curious what you will say after you saw the video…. 🙄