2017 FXDB rough idle when hot
#1
2017 FXDB rough idle when hot
I have a 2017 FXDB with a Two brothers 2-1 exhaust, Arlen Ness Big Sucker and Power Commander V. Was running great but all of a sudden I’ve been experiencing an issue at idle. When I come to a stop it idle fine around 950-1000 rpms for 10-15 seconds then it will drop to around 870-890 for a second and then catch itself and go back to normal idle. Seems like it is doing a lot of hunting around. It has also died twice while slowing down to a stop. Only does this when the engine is warm.
Things I have checked so far are:
Battery
Spark plugs-new
Cleaned IAC
Different fuel
removing pcv
Any thoughts?
Things I have checked so far are:
Battery
Spark plugs-new
Cleaned IAC
Different fuel
removing pcv
Any thoughts?
#4
#5
I dont see any damaged wires in the throttle body area.
How do do I check the TPS?
Last edited by Chrisfxdb; 07-07-2019 at 07:59 PM.
#6
Been quite a few people with the exact same problem over the years that refuse to believe that the speed sensor can cause that problem until they replace it and problem solved.
TPS should be able to be checked through the Power Commander I believe you might have to look at the power commander instructions.
If you had access to a TTS or Power Vision or even a SEPST it is easy to test.
#7
The speed sensor may not be showing any other symptoms except the one you have and that is a problem that only another speed sensor will show you.
Been quite a few people with the exact same problem over the years that refuse to believe that the speed sensor can cause that problem until they replace it and problem solved.
TPS should be able to be checked through the Power Commander I believe you might have to look at the power commander instructions.
If you had access to a TTS or Power Vision or even a SEPST it is easy to test.
Been quite a few people with the exact same problem over the years that refuse to believe that the speed sensor can cause that problem until they replace it and problem solved.
TPS should be able to be checked through the Power Commander I believe you might have to look at the power commander instructions.
If you had access to a TTS or Power Vision or even a SEPST it is easy to test.
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#8
TPS can also be checked with a good multimeter.
rbabos (Ron) wrote this below so don't give me credit for it
Now if I can understand my stupid sketch here , it should be like this. Set the ohm meter to the 100 scale first.
Viewing inside the opening of the tps for the plug, place the locking tab at 12 oclock position.
The two points down left and right of center should read 41
The left upper to lower should read 42 and 12 full throttle
Right upper to lower should read 12 and 42 open.
Both readings from closed throttle to open should show smooth progression without jumping.
I had my tb off when I did this, so it will be more difficult to do on the bike, but it is possible. Hope this makes sense.
#9
It might not be the speed sensor such is the problem when these bikes don't throw codes but we know there is a problem.
TPS can also be checked with a good multimeter.
rbabos (Ron) wrote this below so don't give me credit for it
Now if I can understand my stupid sketch here , it should be like this. Set the ohm meter to the 100 scale first.
Viewing inside the opening of the tps for the plug, place the locking tab at 12 oclock position.
The two points down left and right of center should read 41
The left upper to lower should read 42 and 12 full throttle
Right upper to lower should read 12 and 42 open.
Both readings from closed throttle to open should show smooth progression without jumping.
I had my tb off when I did this, so it will be more difficult to do on the bike, but it is possible. Hope this makes sense.
TPS can also be checked with a good multimeter.
rbabos (Ron) wrote this below so don't give me credit for it
Now if I can understand my stupid sketch here , it should be like this. Set the ohm meter to the 100 scale first.
Viewing inside the opening of the tps for the plug, place the locking tab at 12 oclock position.
The two points down left and right of center should read 41
The left upper to lower should read 42 and 12 full throttle
Right upper to lower should read 12 and 42 open.
Both readings from closed throttle to open should show smooth progression without jumping.
I had my tb off when I did this, so it will be more difficult to do on the bike, but it is possible. Hope this makes sense.
#10
It might not be the speed sensor such is the problem when these bikes don't throw codes but we know there is a problem.
TPS can also be checked with a good multimeter.
rbabos (Ron) wrote this below so don't give me credit for it
Now if I can understand my stupid sketch here , it should be like this. Set the ohm meter to the 100 scale first.
Viewing inside the opening of the tps for the plug, place the locking tab at 12 oclock position.
The two points down left and right of center should read 41
The left upper to lower should read 42 and 12 full throttle
Right upper to lower should read 12 and 42 open.
Both readings from closed throttle to open should show smooth progression without jumping.
I had my tb off when I did this, so it will be more difficult to do on the bike, but it is possible. Hope this makes sense.
TPS can also be checked with a good multimeter.
rbabos (Ron) wrote this below so don't give me credit for it
Now if I can understand my stupid sketch here , it should be like this. Set the ohm meter to the 100 scale first.
Viewing inside the opening of the tps for the plug, place the locking tab at 12 oclock position.
The two points down left and right of center should read 41
The left upper to lower should read 42 and 12 full throttle
Right upper to lower should read 12 and 42 open.
Both readings from closed throttle to open should show smooth progression without jumping.
I had my tb off when I did this, so it will be more difficult to do on the bike, but it is possible. Hope this makes sense.