Evo sportster no spark - ran rough before
#1
Evo sportster no spark - ran rough before
New harley owner 2002 883 with 30k. Previous owner said there was issue with stalling and the choke.
Recently bought a stock non runner. Put a fresh battery in and fired up and drove about 10 miles, but wouldn't idle without choke. During this ride the negative battery terminal screw fell off and was only connected via the positive terminal.
I took the carb on and off like 15 times cleaning the carb and getting it set in the manifold. I was able start it up after each time and finally able to get it to idle with only slight popping.
I noticed the idle mixture screw poking into the carb throat, so I drilled the cap and backed it out. This all happened over the period of two weekends. I started it up and drove about a block before it died. Haven't been able to start it since.
At one point when cranking the starter I was getting smoking from the negative terminal. I cleaned the connections and made sure there was continuity to ground and it doesn't smoke now.
Checked today and now I'm not getting spark. Thought it was time to reach out for some advice. Thanks!
Recently bought a stock non runner. Put a fresh battery in and fired up and drove about 10 miles, but wouldn't idle without choke. During this ride the negative battery terminal screw fell off and was only connected via the positive terminal.
I took the carb on and off like 15 times cleaning the carb and getting it set in the manifold. I was able start it up after each time and finally able to get it to idle with only slight popping.
I noticed the idle mixture screw poking into the carb throat, so I drilled the cap and backed it out. This all happened over the period of two weekends. I started it up and drove about a block before it died. Haven't been able to start it since.
At one point when cranking the starter I was getting smoking from the negative terminal. I cleaned the connections and made sure there was continuity to ground and it doesn't smoke now.
Checked today and now I'm not getting spark. Thought it was time to reach out for some advice. Thanks!
#2
let us divide the circuit.
pull the wire off the ign coil that goes to the ign module. with power on, flash the wire to a good ground point while observing the plugs. if you get spark, then the circuit is good, if not, work backwards to verify that the bar switch is good and fusing and wiring.
now check for power to the module. if none, work backwards. sometimes, you will get a bad bank angle sensor and this will kill the ign. also, some models had issues with power distribution panel so pull it and check the rear for corrosion. then the ign module could be bad or the ignition pickup behind the cover. a FSM is a must as well as the electrical manual.
pull the wire off the ign coil that goes to the ign module. with power on, flash the wire to a good ground point while observing the plugs. if you get spark, then the circuit is good, if not, work backwards to verify that the bar switch is good and fusing and wiring.
now check for power to the module. if none, work backwards. sometimes, you will get a bad bank angle sensor and this will kill the ign. also, some models had issues with power distribution panel so pull it and check the rear for corrosion. then the ign module could be bad or the ignition pickup behind the cover. a FSM is a must as well as the electrical manual.
#3
Thanks so much for the tips. I picked up a manual, and while reading your post I remembered that I checked for ground where the spark plugs are and it's not grounding to the frame or battery negaitve terminal. I set the multimeter to 200k ohms and still no reading to either the head or plugs to ground.
I also noticed that the manual has a different coil that's on my bike. The coil on my bike is the earlier 1991-1997 model with 2 primary mounts and 2 secondary ports. The manual has a coil with 6 mount/plug reading locations for the 2002 model.
I got got higher spec for primary, but couldn't get any readings for secondary. I guess I'll try replacing the coil first, and figuring out why the head isn't grounded?
I also noticed that the manual has a different coil that's on my bike. The coil on my bike is the earlier 1991-1997 model with 2 primary mounts and 2 secondary ports. The manual has a coil with 6 mount/plug reading locations for the 2002 model.
I got got higher spec for primary, but couldn't get any readings for secondary. I guess I'll try replacing the coil first, and figuring out why the head isn't grounded?
#4
pictures are worth a thousand words. i do have the electrical in my library, if you need help.
you must know what you have FIRST. the impedance of the coil must match the ign module driver circuit or you will still have issues. you can skin by with a higher coil impedance at a cost but if lower, it will be over driven and damage the coil or module.
grounds are very important so check them all, clean them up and apply anti-corrosion protection.
do not rule out spark plugs, even new ones.
you must know what you have FIRST. the impedance of the coil must match the ign module driver circuit or you will still have issues. you can skin by with a higher coil impedance at a cost but if lower, it will be over driven and damage the coil or module.
grounds are very important so check them all, clean them up and apply anti-corrosion protection.
do not rule out spark plugs, even new ones.
#5
Pic attached of the coil.
Also pic of my hand is to show what seems to be grounded and what isn't. The metal part my pointer finger is on has continuity with the negative battery terminal.
The part my middle finger is on does not have continuity to the frame or negative battery terminal. This is the part the spark plug is screwed into(the jug?).
Also pic of my hand is to show what seems to be grounded and what isn't. The metal part my pointer finger is on has continuity with the negative battery terminal.
The part my middle finger is on does not have continuity to the frame or negative battery terminal. This is the part the spark plug is screwed into(the jug?).
#7
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#8
Update. Took a little more time to study the ign diagnosis in the manual and realized I was in the 1200S section. My coil is fine for the 883.
The white/black tracer wire is getting less than 11v (around 10.1v). I'm going to go through the diagnosis section this week and will update next weekend.
In the air box area, the breather hose elbow is rotted away, as well as the tank drain hose.
I'll also look to pick up a new coil and plugs at a minimum.
The white/black tracer wire is getting less than 11v (around 10.1v). I'm going to go through the diagnosis section this week and will update next weekend.
In the air box area, the breather hose elbow is rotted away, as well as the tank drain hose.
I'll also look to pick up a new coil and plugs at a minimum.
#9
Had a bit if time tonight.
Rechecked my work from this weekend and found the coils met the specs in the manual for primary and secondary coils.
The white/black wire had 11.3v to it. I forget what the pink terminal measured.
Plugs tested good for spark on another bike.
The head is grounded to the negative battery terminal.
Will post more info as I go.
Rechecked my work from this weekend and found the coils met the specs in the manual for primary and secondary coils.
The white/black wire had 11.3v to it. I forget what the pink terminal measured.
Plugs tested good for spark on another bike.
The head is grounded to the negative battery terminal.
Will post more info as I go.
#10
Was hoping my issue was the bank angle sensor. Disconnected it and cut the top open so I could see how it worked. Pulled out the circuit board, removed the prong to the grey wire. Soldered a line across the black and green to connect them. Put it back in the cap and filled with hot glue. Plugged back into the bike and no dice. Still no spark. Will double confirm with a paper clip, but seems like I'm back to troubleshooting.