NGK Iridium Plugs in stock TC88" 06' FXDLI results
#11
#12
#13
#14
well the truth is that any spark plug regardless of type suffer from the same abnormalities. each design has +/-'s and each helps solve one piece of a puzzle but none solve everything and some are just pure crapola.
that said, who said iridium plugs cannot be used with ion sense? truth told, they are stock plugs in a lot of vehicles. true, there are diff types of ion sense systems.
the plug gap plays an important role and the suggested gap or gap out the box is to be taken with a grain of salt. for gins and giggles, too big can lead to misfire and too narrow can stifle spark kernel.
the truth told, no matter the plug, if it is properly set has NADA to do with the ion sense. the plug only provides a bias voltage for the sense system and initiate ignition. once the plug goes out, it is then the sense system comes into play as it reads combustion and not spark plug since it is basically dead out of the water, it is the ionized gases that are read for electrical conductivity.
plug wear is a factor and iridium plugs excel here and is used in mulit-strike ion sense systems.
about two months back, i removed the plugs from my nissan, yep iridium and replaced with iridium but not the stock plug, vehicle would not run right, increased gap .004 and runs like a scalded ape.
that said, who said iridium plugs cannot be used with ion sense? truth told, they are stock plugs in a lot of vehicles. true, there are diff types of ion sense systems.
the plug gap plays an important role and the suggested gap or gap out the box is to be taken with a grain of salt. for gins and giggles, too big can lead to misfire and too narrow can stifle spark kernel.
the truth told, no matter the plug, if it is properly set has NADA to do with the ion sense. the plug only provides a bias voltage for the sense system and initiate ignition. once the plug goes out, it is then the sense system comes into play as it reads combustion and not spark plug since it is basically dead out of the water, it is the ionized gases that are read for electrical conductivity.
plug wear is a factor and iridium plugs excel here and is used in mulit-strike ion sense systems.
about two months back, i removed the plugs from my nissan, yep iridium and replaced with iridium but not the stock plug, vehicle would not run right, increased gap .004 and runs like a scalded ape.
#15
well the truth is that any spark plug regardless of type suffer from the same abnormalities. each design has +/-'s and each helps solve one piece of a puzzle but none solve everything and some are just pure crapola.
that said, who said iridium plugs cannot be used with ion sense? truth told, they are stock plugs in a lot of vehicles. true, there are diff types of ion sense systems.
the plug gap plays an important role and the suggested gap or gap out the box is to be taken with a grain of salt. for gins and giggles, too big can lead to misfire and too narrow can stifle spark kernel.
the truth told, no matter the plug, if it is properly set has NADA to do with the ion sense. the plug only provides a bias voltage for the sense system and initiate ignition. once the plug goes out, it is then the sense system comes into play as it reads combustion and not spark plug since it is basically dead out of the water, it is the ionized gases that are read for electrical conductivity.
plug wear is a factor and iridium plugs excel here and is used in mulit-strike ion sense systems.
about two months back, i removed the plugs from my nissan, yep iridium and replaced with iridium but not the stock plug, vehicle would not run right, increased gap .004 and runs like a scalded ape.
that said, who said iridium plugs cannot be used with ion sense? truth told, they are stock plugs in a lot of vehicles. true, there are diff types of ion sense systems.
the plug gap plays an important role and the suggested gap or gap out the box is to be taken with a grain of salt. for gins and giggles, too big can lead to misfire and too narrow can stifle spark kernel.
the truth told, no matter the plug, if it is properly set has NADA to do with the ion sense. the plug only provides a bias voltage for the sense system and initiate ignition. once the plug goes out, it is then the sense system comes into play as it reads combustion and not spark plug since it is basically dead out of the water, it is the ionized gases that are read for electrical conductivity.
plug wear is a factor and iridium plugs excel here and is used in mulit-strike ion sense systems.
about two months back, i removed the plugs from my nissan, yep iridium and replaced with iridium but not the stock plug, vehicle would not run right, increased gap .004 and runs like a scalded ape.
#16
#18
#19
No way I can buy post 18. Do you know how fast electricity moves?
And hot kick back on starter on a modern FI Harley depends on the luck of where the pistons stop in cylinder and the charge left in intake and cylinder from injectors.
Combine that and a half worn out battery and or loose connection at battery causes that annoying starter bang. Kickback puffs the intake. Most of the times, it bangs the starter and compensator when it pops on the exhaust side since that pops the engine over like a shot charge in large industrial engines that have no electrial starter.
And hot kick back on starter on a modern FI Harley depends on the luck of where the pistons stop in cylinder and the charge left in intake and cylinder from injectors.
Combine that and a half worn out battery and or loose connection at battery causes that annoying starter bang. Kickback puffs the intake. Most of the times, it bangs the starter and compensator when it pops on the exhaust side since that pops the engine over like a shot charge in large industrial engines that have no electrial starter.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 12-18-2018 at 10:14 AM.
#20
No way I can buy post 18. Do you know how fast electricity moves?
And hot kick back on starter on a modern FI Harley depends on the luck of where the pistons stop in cylinder and the charge left in intake and cylinder from injectors.
Combine that and a half worn out battery and or loose connection at battery causes that annoying starter bang. Kickback puffs the intake. Most of the times, it bangs the starter and compensator when it pops on the exhaust side since that pops the engine over like a shot charge in large industrial engines that have no electrial starter.
And hot kick back on starter on a modern FI Harley depends on the luck of where the pistons stop in cylinder and the charge left in intake and cylinder from injectors.
Combine that and a half worn out battery and or loose connection at battery causes that annoying starter bang. Kickback puffs the intake. Most of the times, it bangs the starter and compensator when it pops on the exhaust side since that pops the engine over like a shot charge in large industrial engines that have no electrial starter.
Not sure what you point is by example. It is valid but so is closing the gap or cooler heat range on hot starts when running a high compression motor that has everything else up to snuff. Especially without compression releases..