[X(]Please help!!!! Just changed throttle cables on my 88 FLHTC, backed outside and washed the bike. Here's where the trouble begins: low voltage, 9-10.5 on the voltmeter, I know I cannot trust this so I checked with another volt meter and it was real close, 10-11.5 while running. The stator showed no resistance from post to ground, no way to check voltage from stator. I've replaced the stator, regulator, battery and starter relay.When I had the fairing off the bike, the volts were good (13-14) as I started putting things back on, the volt started to drop off again. Now the weird part: with battery connected to bike and running, I'll have 12.5-12.9 volts, disconneect battery and volt meter to cables it climbs to 14 until the revs go above 3200 rpm then it drops off to about 10-11. I've checked the ground wire on the frame at the neck, checked the solenoid. Someone added the self canceling turn signals. Not sure if that has anything to do with it. Could I have moved or shorted some wire(s) while installing the cables? Had tank loose and held up while I did the carb.[:@][]

 

Only thing comes to mind from what you say here is a bad battery, or something wet like the regulator from washing the bike. If you have a blower or shop vac, try blowing things dry around the regulator and connections on the bike .

 

I wish it were that way. The stator. regulator, battery and starter relay were put on two days after the wash job. Guess I'll be going to the dealer, don't know of any shops in my area. Spoke to two different shops and they had no idea where to start. Thanks for you help. Really enjoyed going over these forums. They have given me ideas where to look, but currently no luck. Again, thanks.

 

Today, the dealer said I had a bad regulator. We'll see Thursday morning.

 

Got it back from dealer Saturday afternoon, not only was the regulator I purchased from aftermarket bad, but so was the first one the dealer put on. What are the odds of two regulators purchased at different stores by made by different companies for the same bike being bad?? The tech at the dealer was pulling his hair out for a day and a half. No one at either shop has heard of this site or the test that you post on the regulator. I couldn't believe that a new reg would be bad, let alone two. But maybe I should have believed the test myself and went and bought another reg. So guys, if you're in the midwest and want to check with a super service center and dealership, I recommend BLUE SPRINGS HARLEY. they're off I-70 Highway and Woods Chapel Rd!!!!!!!!! Love those guys!!!!!

 

Guess what!!! Tonight while riding, voltage dropped to 10!! Little while later, 1-2 miles after a stop light, volts went back up to about 13.5-14!!! Touched the front brake lever, TOUCHED IT, and volts dropped again but came back up. I remember seeing the brake lights on at the dealership, and now I think I found the problem. When I apply the rear brake, volts about 10.5-11, then when I also apply the front brake, volts drop to about 9.5-10. Why would I lose volts when the same lights are activated, just a different switch???? Doen't matter how I touch front brake lever, pull back to apply brakes or gently lay a finger on top of lever with a slight downward pressure, volts drop more than when applying rear brake alone. Again, pull back is very, very minor and lights are on, volts drop.[:@][:'(]

 

Are you checking the voltage with the bike idleing? I know on my 1990 flht with the brake light on and the bike idling the voltage would drop down to 10 volts but when I brought thr rpms up to 1500 the volts would go up above 12V. The charging system does not work well at idle just enough to run the bike and a little bit more. Next time when this happen bring the rpms up to 2000 and see what the voltage is reading. The voltage regulator when bad either over charges or under charges the system. Something else that can cause this is the battery. The battery will act like it is fully charged and cause the voltage regulator not to send out moire then 12-12.5V then act like it is under charged and make the voltage reg send max voltage to the charging system to charge up the battery. Hope this makes since to you, this is the best I can explain it from a key board. There is a charging system troubleshooting guide in the service manual which tell you how to check the stator charging. If you cann't find anything on it I will look it up in my manual. Good Luck.

 

This is at least 1500-2000 RPM. When this happened, I was goning down the road about 40 mph.

 

Just checked the front brake light switch. The tab that hits the pin was barely rubbing on the pin and marks of rubbing off the pin. I moved the tab downward and bent the tab back towards the pin. I'll see later today if that fixes the problem. Remember, I had just put on new throttle cables, not knowing how the brake switch operated. Could this have been that elusive ghost eating my electricity????[sm=drooldude.gif][sm=goodidea.gif]

 

Hi,

I have an '87 FLHTC, 99.9% stock and I have similar problems. The voltmeter will stay at about 12v when idling and riding, however, when I hit my turn signals, touch the brake pedal or lever, it drops to about 9v. The local HD dealer replaced the regulator w/ a stock HD regulator and checked everything else out and declared the bike fixed. When I ride occasionally, the voltage will drop to zero and the bike will cut out. It usually happens when I'm doing about 65 - 75 on the freeway, which is pretty scary. I have a brand new known-good battery and a brand new known-good regulator. the only non-stock things are a couple LED lights, that were added after the problem started. I've switched back with the same issues. I'm hoping you can update us with what's happening with your bike because I've had no luck fixing the issue with mine.



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'87 FLHTC