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TPS Replacement Suggestions...

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  #41  
Old 01-02-2020, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by header14z
Hi Ed,

Great info posted in this thread, but I'm seeing something that hasn't been posted yet?

I have a 2001 FLHTCUI (82,000 miles) that just was completely rebuilt (103 to107 bored jugs, Carrillo Bullet Series pistons/rings, ported SE heads with new valve/seats, brand new Man-O-War crank assembly from Dark Horse Ironworks, S&S 585 cams, Feuling OE+ cam plate, Feuling quickie push rods, new cam pinions/bearings/chains/hydraulic tensioners...and many more $$$). Bike was just tuned by an Independent with a TTP but they did not do any adjustments on the MM intake (not happy). Bike has always had a low cold idle RPM and I would just deal with messing with the throttle until it warmed up. Once at temp the idle was fine, but the bike always would backfire on deceleration or engine breaking. Since the rebuild, I feel the backfiring is worse and really starting to question the quality of the "tune"??

So I'm digging into the MM settings. With the ICA connection removed, the TPS is only reading .155v which if the .195v is accurate for a twin cam it's not huge (if .275v is correct - I'm way off). My bigger concern is the voltage does not change which you move the throttle? So now, I'm really reluctant to do anything.

Just pulled the spark plugs and they are black & wet looking (running rich).

Any suggestions moving forward?
You caught me after a couple of good old fashioneds and dinner, but I know that system by heart so here goes... I will bullet point it.

1) The .275 was an EVO carryover misprint. TC88 was about .175V but .195V was a sweet spot. This is with the screws backed off, and purely the base TP setting - no ISC affecting it at all. Some people with big motors use the .275 and get away with it, but on an 88 or 95 it usually resulted in rich idle conditions and difficult starting.
2) When a lot of performance work was done on Marelli, in some cases we were just happy if they would start and once warm run properly - cold warm up was iffy on some combinations. However, with all the tuning product advancements, I don't believe that to be a completely accurate stance today. I am not familiar with a TTP tuner. For a Marelli, I would have used a PowerCommander with a dual cylinder map. PowerCommander also has a very good TP base adjustment setting procedure to zero it to their product. Can you verify the tuner used?
4) The tuning should have been done after the base TP was set. In the big scheme of things, you should be ok if you set it to .195 because as the throttle advances, the .2 or .3V you are off become a drop in the bucket to the actual position. If your base TP is truly .175 and it's rich, they did that in the tuning tables because .175 on your motor would be lean. You could set it to .195, but I don't know what they did in the tuning - it might make it worse. If it's set up correctly, it shouldn't hurt.
5) Darkhorse is my machine shop of choice. I cannot say enough about John Dahmer and the work they produce. Great call there.
6) Backfire on decel can usually be addressed by advancing the timing on decel and/or adjusting fuel. Typically significantly advancing the timing works well. However, exhaust configuration and exhaust leaks can really affect this. You also need to be sure that the throttle cables are adjusted properly. If they are holding the throttle open even 1%, it will deliver fuel on decel and feed the pop.
7) If the voltage does not change when you move the throttle, but the bike runs and goes down the road, I would say there is an error in how you are trying to obtain the voltage. That bike is a purely TP & CKP system with temperature and voltage adjustments making minor changes. Without the TP, it wouldn't function.

Let me know.

Ed
 

Last edited by Ed Ramberger; 01-02-2020 at 07:14 PM.
  #42  
Old 01-02-2020, 08:05 PM
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Correction, the tuner is DirectLink/FlashTuner and what the INDY recommended for the MM...this was the whole reason I went to this shop on the recommendation that they could tune a MM.

Tune came out to 101hp/113 ft lbs.

Is there a good video for throttle cable adjustment?
 
  #43  
Old 01-02-2020, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by header14z
Correction, the tuner is DirectLink/FlashTuner and what the INDY recommended for the MM...this was the whole reason I went to this shop on the recommendation that they could tune a MM.

Tune came out to 101hp/113 ft lbs.

Is there a good video for throttle cable adjustment?
That sounds low on power. Regarding the cables, loosen the pull close and adjust the pull open so that it allows the throttle to completely close and just baaarely clicks on the stop at WOT. Then adjust the pull closed to take up the slack and have a little free play. If they bind at this point, would will have to fudge a bit and adjust the pull open so it hits the stop harder. The reason I adjust them to just barely click on the stop is so that when you are all nuts on the throttle, it's at WOT but the cable is not being stressed needlessly.

Also, it is important to verify that the ECM is seeing the base setting as Idle. Do you have access to a scanner? If not, you can adjust your TP settings from scratch.
 

Last edited by Ed Ramberger; 01-02-2020 at 08:14 PM.
  #44  
Old 01-02-2020, 08:29 PM
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I really don't want to mess with the TP...every time I try to fix a problem I have to keep digging into my wallet. SO, if I just adjust the Cold and Hot idle set screws that should help idle situations.

I do see a lot of play in the throttle cables so I like your recommendation.

What would you expect to see on a 107 rebuild for power...I have to admit I'm a little bummed on the performance bump???? Any other suggestions?
 
  #45  
Old 01-02-2020, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by header14z
I really don't want to mess with the TP...every time I try to fix a problem I have to keep digging into my wallet. SO, if I just adjust the Cold and Hot idle set screws that should help idle situations.

I do see a lot of play in the throttle cables so I like your recommendation.

What would you expect to see on a 107 rebuild for power...I have to admit I'm a little bummed on the performance bump???? Any other suggestions?
ECM knows base idle off of voltage that is set after fuses are pulled while doing a specific procedure. Lowering hot idle won't hurt regarding this setting, but raising it could throw it out of whack. Any voltage lower than a learned base is still seen as idle, any voltage higher is not considered idle by ECM. Scott at Hillside or Jamie can give you a lot of power numbers, it just sounded low to me for a 107. Also, your exhaust wasn't listed.
 
  #46  
Old 01-02-2020, 08:37 PM
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Thanks for all the quick responses!

Where was your Wisconsin location...used to live in Janesville and parents are in Lodi.
 
  #47  
Old 01-02-2020, 08:48 PM
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Didn't catch your exhaust comment - unfortunately at this point is still stock HD from what I can tell.
 
  #48  
Old 01-02-2020, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by header14z
Didn't catch your exhaust comment - unfortunately at this point is still stock HD from what I can tell.
Stock exhaust is a major obstruction to power on that engine. I lived in West Bend - worked at the MoCo for 14 years. Tech Service and HDU.
 
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  #49  
Old 01-19-2020, 10:54 AM
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Hi Ed,

Any recommendation on any exhaust upgrades that would pair well with my setup?
 
  #50  
Old 01-25-2020, 04:09 PM
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Help ED!!!

In my search for perfection, I tried adjusting the TPS against my better judgement.

Per the few threads above, I thought my DVC was at .157 but was always very jumpy and I could not get a good .196 DVC set, started the bike, idled really bad and got a check engine light.

So I took off the TPS, visually inspect and all looks good, cleaned and reinstalled. Now, I finally get a steady voltage reading but the MAX adjustment I can get is .112V. Even if I take out the mounting screws and rotate TPS past the bolt holes the max is .125V; however, now when I open the throttle I do see the voltage adjust which I did not see before so that's a step in the right direction.

Replace TPS??? This SUCKS.

 


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