Gawd, please throw me a life preserver before I drown myself in sorrow. I'm working on my buddy's '98 FLHRCI with 9950 miles and stored inside until recently hit by car, then it sat outdoors in three weeks of rain last June at the tow outfit before I got it. It had/has spark and motor spins over, but won't start. Cowboy HD parts guy tells me probably Bank Angle Sensor/Attitude Sensor, as the car-hit, often breaks the magnets loose. I have fuelie cars, so understand the switching device for safety reasons. Now that I've installed a new Attitude Sensor the bike still won't start. I pulled the canopy and cover and jumpers 12v. from battery directly to pump wire and the pump spins, pressurizes system and starts, reflecting a good pump. Reassemble and disconnect the single bullet power lead and attach my DVM and I get 12v. when I turn the key on, but only for a couple seconds. What is disrupting current flow to the pump? I should add the I've replaced the high pressure fuel line, lubed the sticky cables, and generally detailed everything after the collision repair was completed. I'm outamyleague. Would anyone care to chime in and tell me what I'm overlooking please? Danke!

 

Welcome to the H-D Forums from Idaho ! ENJOY !

 

The fuel pump on a 1998 EFI bike will not be on continuously when starting. You turn the ignition on, the fuel pump pressurizes the lines, then shuts off. After ignition the pump will supply the fuel as needed. Yours seems to be acting correctly.

First things first on an EFI bike.
1) Make sure the battery is fully charged, and known to be good.
2) Check for any stored trouble codes. There is a key ON/OFF sequence that you can find in the manual or search online that will make the engine light flash any stored codes.
3) Try resynching the IAC to the ECM. Another key ON/OFF sequence that you can search for.
4) Are you certain that the bike has spark? If it does you can squirt a bit of fuel directly into the throttle body to see if she will start. If it starts and quits it is one of the the sensors, Injectors, the ECM, or an open circuit in a line somewhere. If it doesn't start you are not getting spark.
5) Unless you are rich, don't start replacing parts. There are diagnostics in the service manual that you can follow, but start with what I gave you first.

 

Good Sunday evening. I'm still stumped. To reiterate, the bike has compression, verified spark and start with starting fluid OR if I jumper 12v from battery to yellow/ green single bullet connector to fuel pump. As soon as I apply direct current to the pump, it howls with pleasure for several seconds then once the system is pressurized it goes quiet. I hit the start button and it IMMEDIATELY lights up smoothly then starves out.
Now, I DO have 12v at terminal 30 of my FP relay, AND I have attached my DVM to the relay side of the yellow/green bullet connector powering the FP and I read 12v for 2 seconds, then voltage drops off to mv, and back up to 12v when cranking. So all of that seems like it is functioning correctly, YET when I re-connect the yellow/green bullet connector and turn the switch ON, I don't hear the FP do anything more than making a couple clicks. It's not spinning up, for sure. It seems as if it has a grounding circuit that isn't working in conjunction with voltage from the FP relay, but when I jumper directly from battery to yellow/green I get the pump spinning. FWIW, remember, that this was a crash bike, and crashed hard enough to make the CamPS/VAS go kaput. The bottom side of the tank was dented and sheared the wires to the fuel gauge. Coud that replacement Cam PS/VAS be faulty, or not making adequate contact at the 3 pin triangular connector? I'm stuck. I've been thru that connector, as well as dressing all fuses, ECM, and every connector otherwise, including dielectric grease. 2nd FWIW, I pulled the Crank Position Sensor out for cleaning and new O-ring. Sorry I haven't been able to let you know the problems been fixed! Thanks kindly for your help and wisdom.

 

The bank angle / tilt sensor is part of the cam position sensor by right foot.
When the sensor is triggered by a tip over the bike will crank but not start.
Reset is to cycle the gas tank **** a few times.
The pump will cycle only when the run/stop switch on the bar is on run.
It will cycle once for a few seconds.
It is my understand from past replacement that cam sensor is specific to that model and only from HD ..an alternative will not match the cup.. I guess it would be possible to bypass the tilt sensor and use another unit with a matching cup.
The cam sensor has a black pencil thick wire connection by throttle side, behind side painted cover, triangle frame area, very near seat....if that sensor gets loose it will cause problems.
The cam sensor is 32448-95 i believe as you probably saw painted on the original unit, with the first ones containing a beige sealant that melts and the replacement having a black sealant.
You can read codes rather easily with a simple on/off cycle sequence and erase stored codes by disconnecting battery.
Please check the connection described as it relates to Cam sensor..
The ECM boot should be reviewed. If ECM connection got wet then little problems happen...clean both ends of that connection at ECM..ground is critical and turns green.
Review the gas tank mounted switch...by-pass switch with a simple jumper wire to rule out switch.

 

I would double check that you have the correct wires on the Cam Pos Sensor in the connector, and that the small orange locking pin that came out of the sensor side of the Deutsch connector is in correctly. If the pin is not fully inserted correctly it will keep the Deutsch connector from locking closed, and the pins will not make contact.

The pins should be:
Red/ white tracer to A
Green/ white tracer to B
Black/ white tracer to C

The arrow on the locking pin should point up toward the external latch on the Deutsch connector.