I'd like to see a canned or email provided calibration BY ANYONE that the end user can "plug it in, load the new tune into your bike, unplug it, and be riding with the New Tune in 5 minutes" that doesn't require a LOT more work than this is led people to believe it is.


How come there are no kool-aide icons on this site?

 

I've had canned maps and full tunes before, would never settle for a canned map after experiencing a full tune. The OP mentioned cost wasn't a huge concern so it's a no brainier to me - full tune. If cost was a concern my input would save until could afford full tune.

 

For perspective on this whole canned/donor calibration thing.

When you buy a Harley you are receiving a canned calibration.

 

Yep, and we all know how the stock bike can be improved on to.

 

With a very restrictive exhaust system. Restrictive exhaust systems tend to not have a problem with reversion and fresh air across the sensor like unrestrictive aftermarket exhaust. Apples to oranges.

 

Not to mention the factory "canned" MAPs are for specific parts, when most of the internet supplied MAPs are for generic ahaust like "true duals" or "slip ons", same with the air cleaners.

 

My point exactly... So you got to ask yourself when you put 30 grand in a new bike... How's that canned calibration working for you?

Maybe I got lucky and it's close so the ALV's will zero it in?


The prudent thing is to tune. What you use to tune is your own business. My personal suggestion is to do the homework and don't let Bubba-Chat talk you into a 400 buck mistake.

If you don't know what you are doing, have no experience with tuning and want a nice running Stage I or II bike then go see someone in your area who is a proficient tuner and let him guide you. For those who want to do this yourself... cool, go for it but you had better do a lot of reading first and understand the process a little before you buy.

 

Just so we are on the same page here, you're not a proponent of "canned MAPs" nether then?

 

They are fine.... as long as they are calibrated/tuned/adjusted to the specific bike/motor you are riding after you receive said canned calibration. You must start somewhere.

If you use a drop in calibration without adjustments... then you do so at your own risk.

That's my opinion.

 

Yep. Pretty much what I said previously..