I didnt, Just takes 3 hours of pumping up and bleeding. I used a putty knife to push the fluid out of the front calipers via brake pads to get the air moving and fluid in the ABS pump. I switch bars and got the measurements a little long, then short so x3 it worked for me. Maybe I'm just lucky. It did take me about an hour and a half of pumping bleeding pumping bleeding the 3rd time because I had done it several times before. Flushing is so much easier. You should never have air introduced into the system just bleeding them unless you let the reservoir go empty while bleeding them. This is of course just my opinion from my experience, working on my bike. 2016 FLSTFBS. I'm sure lots will tell you you have to have Daytona TT or take it the dealership. I was told to take it to the dealer when I did my 117" Or exhaust or bars alloy arts front and back delete signals and brakes. The very first Item I purchased when I got it was the service Manual. Then engine guards. Results may vary dependant on how good you are and experience.
all that is wonderful...except you're still not flushing the fluid out of the abs unit itself. That was the whole issue behind the recent abs fiasco with hd. Now if you feel ok with the way you're doing then that's ok...for you. But your technique isn't really doing a complete job. You shouldn't spread false information about anything important as a brake system on a bike.
I have a snap on Modis Edge, it does all the scanner functions that are needed with out programing, I can work on all the systems in the Harley Davidson abs, bcm, ecu, I really do not understand how you fellas do not understand that yes you can get the fluid to move, But the motor pump move the fluid through valves internal of the abs Brake pressure modulator valve assembly, THE ENTIRE ISSUE AT HAND IS THE WATER SETTLES AT THE LOW POINTS AND IF NOT OPERATING THE PUMP AND THE VALVES SIMULTAIOUSLY TO MOVE THE WATER AND FLUID OUT THE BLEADER AT THE END YOU ARE REALLY JUST MOVING FLUID, NOT IN THE ESSENTIAL LOCATIONS.
I have only been doing it professionally for 32 years.
please take it only as information not telling any one any thing.
Never heard that before. Thanks for letting us know. 32 years is a very long time to do any profession and im sureyou have forgotten more about harleys than I will ever know. Im a machinist. So obviously I'm not a pro, just a guy who enjoys working on his own stuff and engines in general. I thought about purchasing Daytonas product and it looks like I will have to now. So water settles in the ABS unit and unless you actuate the piston? Im guessing it just settles there. This is why I follow these forums. Sounds like if a guy had to he could get away with bleeding them but just to make it to the shop or get a scanner to do it right thanks
If you do it, jiffy stand should not matter. Just of course level master. Protect paint. And keep vacuum low. It's easy to pull air from other side of a the rubber cup pistons.
Once you pull fluid thru to replace old. Careful make the ABS work in a straight line a few times..
If it's still under warranty, best do it 100% correct with documentation. But if you fire ABS with new fluid, my guess is your as good as it gets. There's not an ounce of fluid in the ABS. It's DOT4 or 3, so it's not like a pool of water, it just a little if any absorbed by fluid.
I have a snap on Modis Edge, it does all the scanner functions that are needed with out programing, I can work on all the systems in the Harley Davidson abs, bcm, ecu, I really do not understand how you fellas do not understand that yes you can get the fluid to move, But the motor pump move the fluid through valves internal of the abs Brake pressure modulator valve assembly, THE ENTIRE ISSUE AT HAND IS THE WATER SETTLES AT THE LOW POINTS AND IF NOT OPERATING THE PUMP AND THE VALVES SIMULTAIOUSLY TO MOVE THE WATER AND FLUID OUT THE BLEADER AT THE END YOU ARE REALLY JUST MOVING FLUID, NOT IN THE ESSENTIAL LOCATIONS.
I have only been doing it professionally for 32 years.
please take it only as information not telling any one any thing.
This is Absolutely Correct
Now when changing a component other than the abs unit itself not so much.
Most anything else can be changed and system bled normally. As long a no air is ingested into the abs valve system No Problem.
That's only going to happen if the abs unit is engaged or cycled while there is air in the Base brake system. That's anything But the abs unit.
Does anyone have a breakdown of the ABS Unit? I'm very interested in how they work and whats inside. How does it know when to work and when to not? What exactly is it doing when you start to slide? How does it sense it? I'm very ignorant to ABS and how it works. Hopefully I haven't made the techs to upset with my previous posts. As stated im not a pro and am ignorant to the system.
Does anyone have a breakdown of the ABS Unit? I'm very interested in how they work and whats inside. How does it know when to work and when to not? What exactly is it doing when you start to slide? How does it sense it? I'm very ignorant to ABS and how it works. Hopefully I haven't made the techs to upset with my previous posts. As stated im not a pro and am ignorant to the system.
There are some teardowns on YouTube. The first version of it just had some sorry engineering and poor quality aluminum in it. The smallest amount of corrosion froze up the piston.
06-14-2021 | 12:18 PM
