I installed my fork boots 4 years ago when I installed the mini-apes. I slid the fork tubes down and then up thru the boots, much like the clamps for the light bar. I've written a bunch of stuff down to check today for the rear signals. Did you use your original street bob wiring harness to the rear?
The wiring diagram for fat bob has the circuit board 'upside down' due to the inverted tail light, so first thing I'll check is the wiring to those to make sure it is in the connectors correctly. I'm thinking grounding as well. I've done a lot of reading on that TSSM causing a lot of issues for people, and hope that isn't the problem. I did have that module on the old setup and was going to take it out.
Appreciate the tip on the black, but I'm not really a flame type. I'm thinking of some old school color scheme from the 60s though. Probably going to go away from the black as well. That just happened to be the color of the take-off fender I got from another forum member. I am really liking how it's taking shape though. Thanks again for the dimensions for the fork-fender brackets. I've got time to wait on those ones from klockwerks, so messing around with the aluminum I got is no issue.
Fortunately, the gap between rear struts and rear fender is not that substantial and I'll fill it in with spacers for now with plans to put a solid aluminum piece in there with the strut mount bolts going thru holes in the right places. Then paint the aluminum piece as needed, probably black if I don't plan on using the old strut covers, which have too many hole in them, and are chrome, we'll see. I am thinking that with some black bubble bags with or without the delta will sharpen it up. You all are going to have to wait on the color scheme I'll go with. Don't want to reveal it all just yet.
I do remember reading how you had to grind down the light bar bracket lower end. I ground each side down from original thickness including the L-bracket to 7/16 in. It worked out nicely, and definitely took the strain off the clamps. I'm glad the original welded on nut came off. The machine shop here in town tig-d that back on, tig-d the other side and told me it won't come off now.
Priced some gas bottles yesterday for my welder and will be dropping the initial outlay on that soon for a cleaner weld. I'll mess around with 'forgetting' to turn on the bottle. The machine shop guy here told me to take as much scrap as I wanted to play around with. I do need to find some 18 ga. steel, I believe that is the fender thickness, for practicing hole filling for the final prep on the rear fender.
I wish I could use that HD aux switch add on to the handlebar switches. That is a nice clean factory look. As it stands now, I plan on routing the wires as inconspicuously as possible and putting the toggle in an out of the way, but accessible place, for when I need to turn those spots off. I have a regular on/off metal toggle for now, but final product will use a rocker. I'm thinking if I have the room to put it on the electrical caddy cover so my left hand can reach down and flip it off as needed. My relay works, and the lights themselves work, just need to fine tune the wiring for the relay. I was going to use the customer accessory port under the seat for the on/off toggle to activate the relay, and use the B+ connector for the main power to the lights themselves. Other than the relay and the customer acc. connector, that is how some HD instructions have it for aux lights on a dyna. I was playing around with that the other day, but got side tracked, and will hit it again, hopefully today, if I can get the rear signal issue worked out.
What kind of milling machine does your father have? I was looking at a grizzly hobby size machine for playing around with.
I'll also reinstall the original circuit board and dangle the old rear signals and tail light and wire up as before to see if that still works to rule out.