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FL-Dyna Interest Group
Discussion Tools
03-06-2015
06:03 PM
AFMM3
This is what I was inspired by, Jerry Lee Lewis 1959 FLH (Elvis got the same one that year too) that just sold at auction for $385,000
03-07-2015
05:42 AM
blueangel73
Repeat what I said earlier with more wow, wow, wow's. I will be looking for your bike when I am out and about touring this summer. I don't even want to know how much cash you hve invested in that ride.......
I got the 16"x3" Softail Slim wheels in yesterday, so weird holding such a small rim. You guys weren't kidding about the extra meat on that rear hub, I think I can put some concave lenses on both sides and see Pluto from here. Know to start my search for a Dyna rear hub. Sucks I'll be gone for a while, snow is melting, parts are in and I am gone.
03-07-2015
09:23 AM
AFMM3
As far as cash into the bike, the only real large expenses were the valve covers ($515) and a new rear tire ($189). I bought new mufflers because my old ones were damaged due to two different mounting systems ($98 for pair). Local guy did seat for $100 using leftover, very high quality snowmobile seat material (twice as good as used by Mustang). Got the horn on a special for $90, the rear light bar for another $90. The front end is 2012 Softail trees ($129), 2008+ Softail lowers $35, new DBI forks $100 for pair, new Progressive springs for forks. Got a used 2008+ Softail front hub and relaced it to my rim and reused front tire. Lots of little bits (hub cap etc) came from local dealer that offers 10% military discount (retired AF 16 years ago).
03-07-2015
09:23 AM
AFMM3
I had leftover clear coat, primer/sealer, and basecoat reducer on hand, just had to buy 4 oz of black, 2 oz of white, primer activator and clear coat hardener for $87 total. I painted the tins in my garage. Derby cover (1936-65) was $14 and I used a Primo Rivera spacer ($30) as an adapter for it. I did replace all wheel bearings with the new 2012 "Deep Groove" style at 10% discount.
To me, getting parts cheap is just as much fun as adapting them to my situation.
03-07-2015
10:17 PM
sonnydaze
afmm3 if you had a chance to buy a 1958 panhead red and white original paint and nice condition for 12500 would you buy that bike or build your bike ? reason I ask is I have a friend that is trying to sell me his but im just not sure I need another kick only bike that I ride a few times a year that has bad drum brakes and 4 speed ect
03-08-2015
07:50 AM
AFMM3
Me personally, I have no interest in owning a garage queen right now. When I am retired, that may be another story. A 1958 Panhead has to be either an obsession or an investment. A museum quality 1958 could fetch in the mid $20k at auction. If I inherited one from some long lost relative, I would preserve and enjoy it. If I was offered to purchase one, I would pass.
I built mine so I can ride it every day. It was easy (quilt free) for me to do because this bike was bought from a salvage yard. Strangely, though it was totaled by the insurance company it has a clear title.
03-08-2015
10:34 PM
sonnydaze
I have several garage queens , including corvette that never gets driven . I have a jacked up 1 ton diesel that sits most of the time too . maybe im getting old I usually take Lincoln town car if I drive . might wait till end of summer and just buy a streetglide
03-09-2015
07:25 PM
AFMM3
I got my white foot boards/shifter peg and brake pad, so I have released photos to the Dyna Forum under "This may be as Old School as a Dyna can go..."
03-10-2015
01:03 AM
sonnydaze
when you get your white coke bottle grips it will be perfect
03-10-2015
06:08 AM
blueangel73
After five years of owning my Street Bob, I finally pulled the Burly Slammers off the back end and reinstalled the stock shocks. Taking a little while to get used to the added height, but I can say the ride is a little smoother, guess its because the burly's had their 45k miles of beating. I put the stocks back on because I am looking into some new stock height shocks to provide some more ground clearance and comfort.
I have been reading some threads about the offset of the wheels, but can't find anything in the manual. Some people say the wheel should be slightly off center to counter weight and balance, some say it should be centered, can you guys tell me if the offset should be centered between the forks and swing arm or should there be an offset at either location.
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