Lesson learned when trusting a fluid change to an Indy
#1
Lesson learned when trusting a fluid change to an Indy
I had all the fluids changed back in Feb 11 by an Indy. I just bought the bike and was having the stage 1 done and wasn’t sure when the last fluid change was done so I figured why not.
About a month ago I noticed fresh oil under the oil filter. I assumed it was just left over oil from when they changed it. Then I twisted on the filter with my hand and it came loose real easy, it wasn’t even “hand tight” So I tightened it up and decided never again.
After the change out today I discovered that all 3 of the drain plug’s o-rings were distorted/torn and they put some sort of sealer paste on the threads, since they obviously didn’t want to swap out the o-rings. When I emptied out the trany fluid there was only 26oz of fluid (should be 32oz by the book). When I emptied out the primary there was only 32oz (should be 38oz by the book). The engine oil was a little low but not too bad. Yes I know for a fact they were low; everything was warmed up prior to the change, I let everything drain completely, measured the old oil, put new oil in according to specs and it measured perfect… No rocket science here.
BTW, I used the Harley Formula+ oil for the trany/primary and Amsoil 20W50 for the engine. I know there are Amsoil bashers out there and about 100 different suggestions for what you should use. I’ve had good luck with Amsoil in the past and figured I’d try it again. I went for a test ride today and everything appears normal; no ticking from the synthetic oil and the trany even seamed to shift smoother.
About a month ago I noticed fresh oil under the oil filter. I assumed it was just left over oil from when they changed it. Then I twisted on the filter with my hand and it came loose real easy, it wasn’t even “hand tight” So I tightened it up and decided never again.
After the change out today I discovered that all 3 of the drain plug’s o-rings were distorted/torn and they put some sort of sealer paste on the threads, since they obviously didn’t want to swap out the o-rings. When I emptied out the trany fluid there was only 26oz of fluid (should be 32oz by the book). When I emptied out the primary there was only 32oz (should be 38oz by the book). The engine oil was a little low but not too bad. Yes I know for a fact they were low; everything was warmed up prior to the change, I let everything drain completely, measured the old oil, put new oil in according to specs and it measured perfect… No rocket science here.
BTW, I used the Harley Formula+ oil for the trany/primary and Amsoil 20W50 for the engine. I know there are Amsoil bashers out there and about 100 different suggestions for what you should use. I’ve had good luck with Amsoil in the past and figured I’d try it again. I went for a test ride today and everything appears normal; no ticking from the synthetic oil and the trany even seamed to shift smoother.
#2
Hate to burst your bubble here MADHOG but;
1. you are not going to get every single ounce of oil out of the primary, transmission, or crankcase. (unless you take them apart that is)
2. the o-rings might well have been new o-rings when installed and distorted when you backed out the drain plugs. (more a possibility than you might think)
3. The paste the INDY shop uses is the exact same paste that the manufacturer uses when the bike is manufactured. Just about everyone who does their own first fluid change is like WTF is this stuff. It's there for a reason and that reason is, it's better than using blue loctite mainly because you don't have to wait the "curing-time" to put fluids back in but also seals the threads better.
1. you are not going to get every single ounce of oil out of the primary, transmission, or crankcase. (unless you take them apart that is)
2. the o-rings might well have been new o-rings when installed and distorted when you backed out the drain plugs. (more a possibility than you might think)
3. The paste the INDY shop uses is the exact same paste that the manufacturer uses when the bike is manufactured. Just about everyone who does their own first fluid change is like WTF is this stuff. It's there for a reason and that reason is, it's better than using blue loctite mainly because you don't have to wait the "curing-time" to put fluids back in but also seals the threads better.
#3
Hate to burst your bubble here MADHOG but;
1. you are not going to get every single ounce of oil out of the primary, transmission, or crankcase. (unless you take them apart that is)
2. the o-rings might well have been new o-rings when installed and distorted when you backed out the drain plugs. (more a possibility than you might think)
3. The paste the INDY shop uses is the exact same paste that the manufacturer uses when the bike is manufactured. Just about everyone who does their own first fluid change is like WTF is this stuff. It's there for a reason and that reason is, it's better than using blue loctite mainly because you don't have to wait the "curing-time" to put fluids back in but also seals the threads better.
1. you are not going to get every single ounce of oil out of the primary, transmission, or crankcase. (unless you take them apart that is)
2. the o-rings might well have been new o-rings when installed and distorted when you backed out the drain plugs. (more a possibility than you might think)
3. The paste the INDY shop uses is the exact same paste that the manufacturer uses when the bike is manufactured. Just about everyone who does their own first fluid change is like WTF is this stuff. It's there for a reason and that reason is, it's better than using blue loctite mainly because you don't have to wait the "curing-time" to put fluids back in but also seals the threads better.
2. I don’t believe they swapped out the o-rings they were simply too mangled, appeared to be the originals. I can’t prove this just my opinion.
3. I don’t see why the Indy or stealership would use the paste. With the proper torque and a new o-ring you shouldn’t even need the paste or Loctite as far as that goes. I couldn’t find anywhere in my maintenance manual where they suggested using any of that stuff. The manual suggest checking the o-ring and replacing it, if necessary, and applying proper torque values.
BL, no bubbles busted here. I just know I feel better doing the stuff myself, at least I’ll know someone else isn’t cutting corners with my bike. I don’t know why I let someone else do it the first time around, convenience I guess…
Last edited by MADHOG; 09-08-2011 at 04:47 PM.
#4
oh i hear ya man and don't take my words as being rude.. wasn't trying to be.. email and messages like this sometimes don't come across the right way. I would much rather tackle my own work too especially with the quality of work I've seen come out of local HD shops around here. There's a lot to be said for convenience, but then there's a lot to be said for you get what you pay for too. Even down to a simple tire change, I have had problem after problem with local shops. My and my wife's lives depend on the proper functionality of that bike when I'm on it so I trust only myself to do anything to it.
#5
I use teflon thread sealing paste and a new oring and torque to spec every time (my bike has 100,000+ miles). The paste guarantees a seal and does no harm. The orings do look used/rough when removing even when they are new every time. I never measure how much fluid I remove (or add for that matter) I just check the engine or transmission dipstick until full and on the primary I fill until it is the proper level on the clutch through the derby cover?
I don't think your indy did anything to be very upset over, you want it done a certain way, do it yourself!
I don't think your indy did anything to be very upset over, you want it done a certain way, do it yourself!
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