This is my first winter with an EFI bike.

What is the correct procedure for putting my baby to rest for the winter, as I am a fair weather rider?

Also, should I use Stable, Seafoam, or something else for the fuel?

Thanks, Lisa

 

add stabil and full tank of gas

 

If it's gonna get laid up from more than a couple of months, I'd fog the engine also.

 

With fuel injected bikes, run it long enough after adding the fuel stabilizer (sta-bil) to get it through the injectors. Usually about 5-7 minutes at a fast idle will dry out the exhaust system and get the stabilizer through the fuel system. Always store with a full tank to avoid condensation.

It is a good idea to change the oil and filter just before storage so as not to have acids and other contaminants sit in the motor. They can damage bearings.

If the bike is to be kept in a place that may freeze, remove the battery being careful to follow the proper procedure to avoid causing sparks by shorting the cables or terminals. Store the battery in a cool, dry place and not on concrete directly, a piece of wood under it will prevent the battery from being discharged. Check the water level (except in maintenance-free batteries) and top up with distilled water. I recommend the use of a Battery Tender to avoid sulfation caused by inactivity. You should use a 12 volt source to run the charge down just a bit before recharging which promotes activity in the battery and keeps the sulfate on the plates to a minimum over the winter.
Also remember that a charging battery emits hydrogen gas that is very explosive so always vent the area where you are charging a battery.

 

I start running stabilized gas about the 1st of November. That way if I get caught short by sudden changes in the weather I just need to plug in the battery tender and life is good. As for filling the tank, two schools of thought. One says fill it up to avoid condensation, the other says to leave room to top off with fresh gas in the spring. Since I store my bike in the garage that while not heated is attached to the house (so the temps are above freezing) I don't worry about condensation.

 

Leaving it low can cause rust to form on the exposed section of the tank, that's why it's best to fill it completely. In the spring, just siphon out fuel and use it in the lawn mower and replace it with fresh fuel. Condensation is from temp swings like opening the garage door and not freezing temps.

 

Good job, Peppi.

Now give us your advice as to why HD motors "puke" oil when a SE air filter is used?

Ride In Peace

 

Thanks for all the excellent responses and tips.

It actually seems easier than my carb'ed bike.

I guess Stabil is the way to go. I discovered Seafoam in the Spring when my other bike's carbs got a little gummed up over the winter. I had been using Stabil to store it at the time, but didn't empty the float bowls that fall. Someone suggested to me then that Seafoam was a better product than Stabil for storing the bike too.

Lisa

 

Seafoam and Marvel mystery oil are better for cleaning the fuel systems but Sta-Bil is better for long term storage to stabilize the fuel. It's best to add it to any fuel that you get as soon as you get it that will be used in any machine that may sit a while.

 

It could be a problem with oil pump alignment, umbrella valves in the heads, overfilled oil level or just a poor design that doesn't have enough suction to draw in the oil fumes and mist that comes through the head breathers. The stock breather units have more suction due to the restrictiveness of the unit and this can cause more suction which in turn will draw on the vent lines pulling in the oil vapors to be burnt by the motor instead of dribbling down inside the filter.