Hey guys,

I have a '92 softail springer and I'd love to get it "up to speed" (e.g. above 80mph without feeling like I'm going to die). I've gotten up to 90mph before but that's fully open throttle, and probably downhill with a little wind at my back.

I'm no speed demon, but I live in CO and so when I go up to WY or SD there are higher speed limits and I hate holding folks up, ya know?

Anyways, I'm looking for some good recommendations of what I can do here. The motor is pretty much stock. I've got a Super E carb (which feels pretty dialed in), EV27 cam, adjustable push rods, and dual exhaust pipes (meaning not 2 into 1, and unfortunately I am a sucker for that aesthetic, so that's the one thing I'm really not trying to change). Any thoughts or follow-up questions?

 

You are making somewhere between 50-60 hp.
my 97 also had a 27 cam and was a dog, the key is definitely more compression, some headwork and I had W6 cam, made a huge difference and almost doubled HP/TQ.
Drag pipes get a bad rap, just usually a little harder to tune then 2:1 and be fine for your application

 

Buy a bike with a bigger engine.

 

So ya wanna go FAST on a 92 Evo. How deep are yer pockets????Check out S&S Cycles.

96" Sidewinder® Big Bore Stroker Kit for 1984-'99 HD® Big Twins - Wrinkle Black Finish An S&S 96" 3-5/8" Sidewinder big bore stroker kit is an economical route to a larger displacement engine. This kit contains nearly everying needed to take a stock 80" Harley-Davidson® Evolution® big twin engine up to 96" displacement. This kit includes S&S 3-5/8" bore aluminum Sidewinder cylinders and forged pistons, a 4-5/8" stroke dynamically balanced S&S flywheel assembly, complete with S&S heavy duty connecting rods and mainshafts, head gaskets, base gaskets, exhaust gaskets. Stock cases will need to be bored out to 3 5/8".

 

49 hp @ 5k is the so called spec at 8.5:1 compression
while that is low for compression, still does not mean it can not get higher speed, shoot the very old hd were low compression as the norm and still scooted along pretty well.
the listed top speed was around 109 mph.
there is one diff that can make a diff and that is drive ratio. if you gear down some, it will be able to pull the now common ratios. to effect the entire range, i would take a step down on the engine pulley.
other than that, you can up wheel pulley or down the drive pulley.
at one time, johnson engineering made a twist gear for the tranny but since hd got away from that design, they do not make them any more. i run the sport gear and it is a HOOT, when i drop into forth, the clock is gone.

 

Could you clarify.. are you saying it has the E, EV27 already and you’re not happy, or are u saying you have those parts to install?

The E, 27 and decent pipe (1 3/4 36” long equal length drags with Thumbscrew 1 3/4” from the end) all tuned should yeild about 70hp 84 torque. Up the pistons to 10:1 with an ev 46 or ev 51 and you should be about 85 hp.

Easy cheap power, take a dremmel (LESS IS MORE) and just clean up any ridges or high spots around the exhaust seat (very little) a little of the meat around the valve stem pedestal, just a tiny bit at the downward turn at the floor, (think D shaped) LESS IS MORE. Then take a 60 grit cartridge roll and quickly evenly just get rid on any flashing or casting ugliness, send them for a GOOD three angle valve job and you’ll be at 90 hp / 90 lbs.

Before some “professional” head Porter or some guy who spent way too much money with a professional head Porter gets his panties all twisted and starts saying ridiculous crap like you’ll ruin your head.. go pound sand. I been doing this for long time, way to long to listen to that crap. If a fellow is cautious and just removes a little and is conservative and gets a good valve job he’s 90% there from spending thousands with a pro head porter. I’ve got lots of heads the “Pros” charged me thousands to port.. and they run the same ET’s as the stock heads I mildly ported with a good valve job. If you still wanna cry, then pass me and then you can tell me your dumping thousands of dollars and waiting months for some internet darling to port them is better… until then keep you comments to yourself.. I spent my time and money already and know what I’m saying. If a fellow has a big dedicated drag bike, than yes… spend thousands. Every pony is important and ultra expensive at that level… but for a 650 lbs bike with 10:1 mechanical compression… that bike won’t know you spent $70 on bits and $250 on a good valve job vs $2k to have them done by somebody who had their name in Hot Bike in 1999.

 

Put in as Ultima El Bruto. 107", or maybe 117" or 127"

 

Change gearing

[ edit, I meant sprocket gearing ]

 

Count the teeth on the rear sprocket, is it 65T or 70T

 

i use pulley instead of sprocket for the engine. this way, you get reduction but since the speedo is off final, no corrections needed. if you do tranny pulley or wheel pulley, you will need to correct the speedo. you will be amazed at how 200>500 rpm can make the diff. sure, it will hum a little more at speed and probably will change mpg a little but it will be easier on the machine.