Pretty sure the subject was a street ridden `92 Softail, not drag racing.

My post was directed to the OP, let`s let him answer the question.

 

it’s called a conversation Dan, obviously he can chime in all he wants, un bunch the panties.
its all relative, my bike was on street tires, NYS inspected and insured, safest place to go fast is a track you know that…

 

first off, i'm not trying to stir up any ****!!
i have different opinions than some of the other posters here about head porting, engine building and lots of other things. I have been doing this for a very long time, have been trained very well and have my own in house dyno. I ALSO have the OP's motorcycle, I own it. 92 Softail springer, stock heads, EV27 cam Mikuni 42 and Vance and Hines longshots with baffles in them. I do not have speed issues like i interpreted from the OP. I can easlily cruise on this bike between 80 and 90 mph without issues and it;s not terribly slow getting there.
My sugeestion would be to get together with someone that knows how to properly tune a bike and try some things out. With stock internals it wont be a drag strip king, but it shouldn't be a slug either.
get a good adjustable ignition system and someone that knows how to tune and lets see what happens.
m
to me, it sounds like your pipes might be a limiting factor, and combine that with your altitude, it might be difficult to work it out.

 

Agreed, see post #11

 

State of tune is a very good suggestion OP. Your combo of current parts should make for a peppy fun ride. Mine is a 93 FXSTS

Post #11 is a nice streetable mild build. It is a different cam, different carb, different ignition, different pipes.. but likely relative being similar example of a mild street build. Personally I’d rather the ev46 over the ev27 unless it’s a full dresser.

 

well mr. 88, the reference was todays vehicle are wayyyyyyy lighter and became more fuel worthy, aka, not a barge. but yes there are cars that will make that benchmark, let you fingers do some walking. the average town putter in in the 2k range.

SHOOT a bell 206 can come in at 1600#.

 

voes is epa

what do you thing the mechanical adv did, it was better in some ways since it was rpm driven. voes has two curves and it will run just as well all day long without the adv curve.
granted there are some perks like crisper throttle and etc but its primary function is to reduce emissions. hence longer burn times equate to less pollutants.
absolutely nothing new under the sun, just an electronic way to do things.
take the ole distributors, they had a base setting primarily to ease starting, a centrifugal the increased base timing to bring power up to match rpm and a VACUUM advance that primarily added some spunk to the throttle.
when manifold pressure rises, it wanes off to prevent ignition issues associated with load so that left centrifugal adv. in times past we used to tweak the distributors to roll in more timing by cutting the slots (a bear as the metal was usually VERY hard) and tweaked rate with spring modes, even the vacuum was tweaked with adjustable units.
voes is trash and an hd cop out to meet EPA, far better the map system.
i had voes at one time but could NOT tune out ping on clutch off no matter what as voes always will force as much adv as it can, i run rpm base and took away 98% of the issues leaving ambient temperature as a factor but no control over that, i come into full adv about 2.8>3.2 k. even with the sportgear, i can ride two up at 45mph at 2k and no issues, i can even do a small roll on and it will respond, cannot crowd it though, or i can drop to 1ST and pull 60 mph, slam 2nd and wheel to the moon, when i drop into 4th, no clock left. so do i need voes, hummmmm, probably not.
shoot my 1974 ch would pull 133 mph at 7.5k. that on a compu-fire/mechanical system.

 

The same could be said for electronic ignition, fuel injection, and any other improvement made to control an internal combustion engine.

 

absolutely true. as engine tech rose, the need for better every thing. all driven by big brother. back in the sixties, muscle cars were common and most advances came not from engineers but the regular joe and the engineers were not sleeping.
there are a lot of things we take for granted, take for instance the slipper piston, sure beat the he$$ out of trunk pistons. invented by roy chole (if spelled correctly) which later became a design engineer to cadillac.
timing has a GREAT influence on emissions. the whole idea is to get the burn time up and not waste power past the exhaust valve. shoot, now they even open/close valve timing according to need on both sides.
i did some logging on my 5.2l and was surprised that it would reach 50* advance at times.
offshore, i have seen old cooper bessemers gain several hundred horse power by going to computer controlled systems, all driven by big brother and emission numbers. that included variable timing vs the fixed magneto.

 

To Dan89FLSTC, when I say I'm trying to get this bike up to speed I'm really just meaning I'd love to be comfortable at 80 or 90 (100mph max) for a more extended amount of time without having the bike feel like it's going to give out from under me. I definitely have no intentions of making this thing a drag bike, so diving further into tuning seems like it should help some.

I currently have a 45 pilot jet and a 170 main jet and it seems happy with that other than the speed issue of course. RPM also only really wants to get up to maaaaybe 3,500 max so I'm curious to get y'alls input on that. I recently replaced what was a failing ignition module with a Dynatek 2000-HD1 and I have it set to the lowest curve.

I'm open to looking into a new rear sprocket if you think that'll help. I gotta take the rear wheel off anyways since my sprocket bolts came loose yesterday. Still have to count the teeth on the current one. Now tell me though, is it the number of teeth or the diameter of the sprocket that would make an effect? Or both?