Tuning for a Stage 1
#1
Tuning for a Stage 1 - Results in!
Well, I'm going in Saturday and having the 5k service done. At the same time, they'll be installing the V&H Power Duals and Hi-Output slip-ons.
Here is where I have some questions.
On my previous bike, I had the V&H Monster Rounds on my stock headpipes with the stock A/C. They did the download flash and the bike ran great.
They are telling me that with the new headpipe and slip-ons, the bike won't run right if I don't do the A/C also as it will not be getting enough air. So... another $150 added to the bill.
And now, they say the download probably won't work with that set-up and I'll probably be getting a lot of decel popping. (I know it'll still be lean, but I had planned on piggy backing a Xied with it).
Anyway, we're going to try it first, and if it isn't running right, I guess I'll bite the bullet and get their Super Tuner (supposedly the old race tuner) for almost $400.00. Then they say it'll need to be dyno tuned (another $400.00).
WTF have I gotten into?? All I wanted was a little better sound, and get rid of some of the heat.
Will it be worth it to do the whole shebang?? I'm not looking to race it. I want reliability and trouble free operation more than anything.
I thought about getting a tuner on line and trying to download it myself, but that will probably end badly and I'd have to have all of it redone anyway.
For those that have experienced this, convince me which way to go please.
Here is where I have some questions.
On my previous bike, I had the V&H Monster Rounds on my stock headpipes with the stock A/C. They did the download flash and the bike ran great.
They are telling me that with the new headpipe and slip-ons, the bike won't run right if I don't do the A/C also as it will not be getting enough air. So... another $150 added to the bill.
And now, they say the download probably won't work with that set-up and I'll probably be getting a lot of decel popping. (I know it'll still be lean, but I had planned on piggy backing a Xied with it).
Anyway, we're going to try it first, and if it isn't running right, I guess I'll bite the bullet and get their Super Tuner (supposedly the old race tuner) for almost $400.00. Then they say it'll need to be dyno tuned (another $400.00).
WTF have I gotten into?? All I wanted was a little better sound, and get rid of some of the heat.
Will it be worth it to do the whole shebang?? I'm not looking to race it. I want reliability and trouble free operation more than anything.
I thought about getting a tuner on line and trying to download it myself, but that will probably end badly and I'd have to have all of it redone anyway.
For those that have experienced this, convince me which way to go please.
Last edited by DannyZ71; 08-30-2014 at 09:57 PM. Reason: Dyno Results
#2
Short answer, yes.
If I'm gonna do it, I always bite the bullet and go all the way. If I'm not, I'll just throw some slip ons on and call it a day.
The power duals and HO's will sound great. I just put them on mine and it's the best combo I've done. I usually do power duals, but I've tried twin slash rounds and rinehart 4", but the HO's blow both out of the water on several points, IMO.
You need the AC, combustion engines run better then more air+fuel you can ram in there. I imagine it would run funny with hi flow exhaust and standard intake. Plus you just spent over a grand on pipes, might as well spend the extra $150 and have a full stage 1. Honestly, not doing the AC shouldn't even be a consideration, it's the cheapest part of the stage 1.
As far as the SERT+dyno goes, it's benefits (assuming you have a good tech) are: 1. It's in your computer, no piggy back or anything like that which can fail 2. It's better than a standard map because it will smooth out the edges. 3. It's HD's preferred method of doing it, so you will be less likely to get screwed if something goes wrong (if nothing else, at least the dealer will support their work). 4. That stuff will go into your standard warranty if done within 60 days I believe.
The dyno tune will be great or crap depending on how good your tech is. Mine was only $300. Here's my sheet. The really important stuff is the smooth curve, and the consistent fuel/air ratio (bottom chart):
You just paid a **** load of money on your bike, might as well do the stage 1 right. You'll really like it I think. I sure do.
Also 1 more thing, I don't expect any worthwhile changes to the Rushmore models until 2019, so the 14s should be good until then. Harley usually does the major changes every 5 years. So assume it will cost around $2500 to get everything done properly, that's $500 a year or $42 a month.
If I'm gonna do it, I always bite the bullet and go all the way. If I'm not, I'll just throw some slip ons on and call it a day.
The power duals and HO's will sound great. I just put them on mine and it's the best combo I've done. I usually do power duals, but I've tried twin slash rounds and rinehart 4", but the HO's blow both out of the water on several points, IMO.
You need the AC, combustion engines run better then more air+fuel you can ram in there. I imagine it would run funny with hi flow exhaust and standard intake. Plus you just spent over a grand on pipes, might as well spend the extra $150 and have a full stage 1. Honestly, not doing the AC shouldn't even be a consideration, it's the cheapest part of the stage 1.
As far as the SERT+dyno goes, it's benefits (assuming you have a good tech) are: 1. It's in your computer, no piggy back or anything like that which can fail 2. It's better than a standard map because it will smooth out the edges. 3. It's HD's preferred method of doing it, so you will be less likely to get screwed if something goes wrong (if nothing else, at least the dealer will support their work). 4. That stuff will go into your standard warranty if done within 60 days I believe.
The dyno tune will be great or crap depending on how good your tech is. Mine was only $300. Here's my sheet. The really important stuff is the smooth curve, and the consistent fuel/air ratio (bottom chart):
You just paid a **** load of money on your bike, might as well do the stage 1 right. You'll really like it I think. I sure do.
Also 1 more thing, I don't expect any worthwhile changes to the Rushmore models until 2019, so the 14s should be good until then. Harley usually does the major changes every 5 years. So assume it will cost around $2500 to get everything done properly, that's $500 a year or $42 a month.
Last edited by Clubber; 08-20-2014 at 12:45 AM.
#4
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: River City Western Canada
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Well, I'm going in Saturday and having the 5k service done. At the same time, they'll be installing the V&H Power Duals and Hi-Output slip-ons.
Here is where I have some questions.
On my previous bike, I had the V&H Monster Rounds on my stock headpipes with the stock A/C. They did the download flash and the bike ran great.
They are telling me that with the new headpipe and slip-ons, the bike won't run right if I don't do the A/C also as it will not be getting enough air. So... another $150 added to the bill.
And now, they say the download probably won't work with that set-up and I'll probably be getting a lot of decel popping. (I know it'll still be lean, but I had planned on piggy backing a Xied with it).
Anyway, we're going to try it first, and if it isn't running right, I guess I'll bite the bullet and get their Super Tuner (supposedly the old race tuner) for almost $400.00. Then they say it'll need to be dyno tuned (another $400.00).
WTF have I gotten into?? All I wanted was a little better sound, and get rid of some of the heat.
Will it be worth it to do the whole shebang?? I'm not looking to race it. I want reliability and trouble free operation more than anything.
I thought about getting a tuner on line and trying to download it myself, but that will probably end badly and I'd have to have all of it redone anyway.
For those that have experienced this, convince me which way to go please.
Here is where I have some questions.
On my previous bike, I had the V&H Monster Rounds on my stock headpipes with the stock A/C. They did the download flash and the bike ran great.
They are telling me that with the new headpipe and slip-ons, the bike won't run right if I don't do the A/C also as it will not be getting enough air. So... another $150 added to the bill.
And now, they say the download probably won't work with that set-up and I'll probably be getting a lot of decel popping. (I know it'll still be lean, but I had planned on piggy backing a Xied with it).
Anyway, we're going to try it first, and if it isn't running right, I guess I'll bite the bullet and get their Super Tuner (supposedly the old race tuner) for almost $400.00. Then they say it'll need to be dyno tuned (another $400.00).
WTF have I gotten into?? All I wanted was a little better sound, and get rid of some of the heat.
Will it be worth it to do the whole shebang?? I'm not looking to race it. I want reliability and trouble free operation more than anything.
I thought about getting a tuner on line and trying to download it myself, but that will probably end badly and I'd have to have all of it redone anyway.
For those that have experienced this, convince me which way to go please.
http://sales.nightrider.com/2014_c_123.html
#5
Yup, what he said. I got V&H Shortshots, quiet baffles, stealth type A/C, and a premapped tuner for less than $800 from FuelMoto. Haven't installed yet but looks pretty straightforward. I was like you just looking for less heat, a little more sound, and I really like the look of the black shortshots on a Slim.
#6
I'm running slip ons decatted head pipe and stock air cleaner with XIED'S. When it is very hot outside (85 degrees and up) I get some pinging between 2800 and 3000 RPM. I was hopping to avoid needing a tuner. Right now I'm saving for a powervision.
#7
Join Date: Jun 2007
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Plus with the manual you can also do the 5K service. Look at all the money we just saved you and your bike will run better than anything the dealer would've done.
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#10
Thanks for the replies. Looking forward to more of them.
Right now, I'm on hold. My funds for this just got put on hold at the Credit Union for 5 business days. So I have time to research and make a decision without rushing into it.
Right now, I'm on hold. My funds for this just got put on hold at the Credit Union for 5 business days. So I have time to research and make a decision without rushing into it.