Hi! I have during acceleration, engine revs up a little fly and no traction, but it is noticeable at 1 transmission when accelerating after 15 miles, that is, after 2700 rpm ... Not always, but only a couple of times. The most surprising one time from the start did not even realize what had happened, like into first gear, and flew up to 4000 rpm and not much traction. Do not think it's in the transmission or improperly turned it on.
At now (and always) the clutch grabs at the end of the handle, that is, when let it go.

Ridden on a motorcycle a couple of hours, then bike stood for about an hour, and then again a couple of hours. And did not notice any problems, everything is clear, as always ... mystic. Oil Belray. In the original oil no doubt.
He was advised to adjust the clutch. I thought regulate only when a new pose.
When changing the oil in the primary is, the clutch looked particularly crime is not visually seen.
What will advise?

On the old bike remember the symptoms of a dying clutch is very similar, but there really are not attracted ... do not want to ...
Photo of clutch cart ... http://imageshack.us/a/img197/7692/uvc9.jpg
ps Sorry for the translation.

I think I should start with this, right? 1.6-3.2mm - clutch cable free play ?

 

It needs a clutch adjustment.The clutch should engage when the lever is less than half way out from the handlebar. You may be OK after adjustment,if it hasn't been run this way for too long. Yes,follow your video to do it right. Change your primary lube,and don't overfill it.

 

hdbob2006,
Okay, thank you! I changed the primary fluid recently, but a little mistake with the level, drove a motorcycle quite a bit, maybe 300 meters. Merged the excess oil and the level made ​​it necessary. After this problem was not with the clutch and I drove about 350 miles.

 

Too much oil won't make the clutch slip,but it will make it sticky.[and then,hard to find neutral.. I recommend changing the primary oil because the worn bits of clutch are in it,if it looks dirty.

 

why would you change the clutch before trying to adjust it? Id adjust free play in cable closer to 3.2mm (1/8th inch at handle) Be sure your bikes cold when adjusting basket

 

hdbob2006,
Yes, it's true, neutral tightly caught. Do you recommend re-merge with new oil, which are possible, trash or debris from the clutch?

ynots,
I would like to solve the problem as quickly as possible and easier, you're right, adjust better than to change all the clutch. Yes, I do it on a cold engine. Clearance from 1.6-3.2 mm. Thank you!

 

I have a problem: when I tightened the bolt, I noticed that it will scroll on its axis, it seemed that tore the thread, but I saw that removing the ... Heli-Coil ... is the second time I meet a broken thread. I do not understand what hands served my motorcycle.

I realized that this is part 37903-90 RELEASE PLATE - $ 20. Should I buy a new or something you can do?





Also, here's the rest of the photo. Is it possible for them to say that the need to change the clutch basket? Thanks in advance!


Old gap



The blue in the basket.






Traces of oil from the bottom gasket, poorly tightened? It's not like oil flowed while removing the cover.

 

I think for $20,I'd just replace it. Should come out by removing that snap-ring.

 

The oil on the inside of the gasket is common, it gets splashed from the starter ring gear and runs down. Id also replace the push rod and jam nut.
Get the clutch adjust mechanism fixed and you should be fine unless you rode it enough to fry your plates. if so your going to need those parts anyway

 

Judging by appearance, two minor superficial scratches on the metal disks that are between the clutch. Color them plain gray, the color of the metal. Clutches in my opinion a very lively, if not new.

How do I set up:
1. Loosen the clutch cable
2. Need to find the time when tightening the screw coupling when there is a slight resistance, ie starts to go tight. According to the manual to unscrew the back of 0.5 - 1 turn and lock nut (I did 3/4 turn) with the probe must keep a 7/32. Nut on 11/16. Tightening torque locknuts I did not find the video says 72​​-120in lbf = 8-13Nm, tightened the nut 85in lbf = 9.6 Nm.
3. Check free travel 1.6-3.2 mm. I left about 3 mm.

In summary:
Clutch works, works well. Especially not drive, but up to 2 gear shifted confidently and without problems. The clutch lever became harder to use was a little bit different, maybe a little closer to the end of the **** is released. Trying to understand how to best set up and how did the right thing ...