My answer to that is that there is no way to produce a map that will fit every motorcycle. Even one of the same model. I can only chalk it up to manufacturing tolerances but all engines are different. I've bought brand new carburetors for bikes that I have that were supposedly set up with jets and needles for my particular (stock) motorcycle and have always had to tune the carb. Sometimes I've even had to change jets. Add to this the fact that people tend to add components that were never meant to work together (pipes, exhaust, intakes, ignition systems, different plugs, etc.) and I'm surprised that anyone can produce a common map that will work on most bikes.

By the way OP: PLEASE POST THE BEFORE AND AFTER DYNO MAPS FOR US!!!

 

OK, I guess that makes sense. Lol Chalk it up to my completely ignorance when it comes to how the tuning effects everything. I assumed if I was running a map for my setup, that it would be the best it could be.

I will definitely post the numbers tomorrow night.... unless I get some negative feedback on here and told not to do it. I thought my Indy was just trying to make a buck, which I don't blame him....but I trust the opinions of everyone here much more than his one opinion.

 

Tell him if it doesn't change the performance of the bike, you want your money back.

 

Why would anyone be opposed to you posting dynamometer results? Personally I think it would be a great service to those who are thinking about having their bikes tuned. Personally, I'm interested in the torque figures.

To me, torque and running characteristics (smooth throttle transitions, no flat spots, consistent acceleration) are more important than horsepower on a street bike. Torque is a real measurement. Ideally you want 80% of max torque as low as possible in the RPM range. The result is a bike that pulls away smoothly and powerfully at low RPM. Horsepower is a theoretical number that has to be calculated (the computer on the dynamometer does it for you). It usually is measured at its peak which is usually very high in the RPM range. Most of us don't ride our bikes regularly in the high RPM ranges so it's far less important to me.

On a race bike I want max horsepower on top end (to pull tall gears at high speed). On a street bike I want max torque down in the low RPM's (below 3,000 RPM). That's the thing that pulls you away from a light effortlessly.

 

I'm guessing they won't go THAT far in guaranteed results. Lol

I wasn't saying that about posting the dyno numbers, I was saying that about someone possibly posting that for $300 its not worth getting it dyno'd and tuned because of the map I am already running.

Great info on the torque and HP numbers, that makes sense.

I just really, really, really hope he shows at least a 5 - 10 torque gain or I will be disappointed in spending that $300. I would think that is enough where you would notice it by the seat of the pants feel.

 

im quite interested in seeing the before and after numbers too...especially since it's a FM map. im currently running their micro tuner with a map for my setup, and i think it performs great....especially for what i paid. or we could find out that your indy is a crummy tuner. lol. i wonder if he would cut you a deal or give a refund if he doesn't pull better numbers? is it possible to "fake" the numbers on the dyno?

 

Yea, I am really worried about 1. Wasting my time and 2. Wasting my money. What if I get the before and after and there is no difference....or at worse, they are worse numbers. I would not be happy about spending $300.... that's a lot of money for no change because like I told him I didn't feel the bike was running bad as it is. I just wonder if it could be better and I'm curious to see the curve.

 

i would think it would be tough to do worse though...because i guess he could just re-apply the tune you came in with, right?

 

Instead of posting here for advice you might want to ask around your area for info on the guy doing the tuning. I'm guessing a canned map from fuel moto is close enough to perfect you will be hard pressed to realize much if any improvement. FWIW keep in mind I'm guessing too. Had the same problem myself so off to the dyno I went. Picked up 2 ft lbs torque and 1 hp. Fuel mileage was about the same. Took the guy 25 pulls to get that.

 

The place I am taking it to (Chris Revia VTwin in Fresno, CA) is a well respected tuner in the area. Side note, he holds the record for the fastest bagger, just set not long ago. Anyway, that isn't the issue, I trust him as a tuner but when I set the appointment, I didn't set it with him or talk to him, I set it with a person behind the counter.

But I do question whether it is going to be worth $300. If I gain 1 HP and 2 lbs of torque, I don't think that is worth $300. But then again, I guess you would have never known that unless you did it.

Reading around, I'm wondering if I should buy a SERT and ditch my PCIII (sell it). From what I read, the SERT can be more detailed in the programming.... and it would be nice to not have a piggy back unit.I'm also thinking about getting a Big Sucker II since I am doing to dyno he could tune for that while I'm there.