Anyway, I gave a technique for doing a racing start. The OP can aspire towards that skill level if he so chooses.

But Archie, reading back what you said clearly indicates that you didn't understand my post. The rev limiter is the computer not allowing the rpm to increase past a preset high value. Probably something like 5000 or 6000 RPM, I don't know what it is off hand. You won't stall your bike when you have the revs screaming at 6000 rpm.

Regarding the 2nd gear start. I do it sometimes, it pulls second off the line not problem. As a matter of fact I never drop it to first unless I come to a complete stop.

To the OP, what you should take away from my post is where I said to accelerate with the clutch. You should practice your clutch, be an expert with it. It takes a lot of finesse in that sweet spot and you have to get used to it. To pull away from traffic at the lights is all about the clutch. When the light turns you bring up the revs and accelerate with the clutch. You'll leave the traffic behind.

To accelerate with the clutch the RPM is constant and at a medium to high range depending on how fast you plan to go. Then as you let out the clutch the bike accelerates until you've released it all the way. Contrast that with the conventional old school method. Using the lameo method you will slowly release the clutch with the RPM's just over idle speed, once the clutch is out roll the throttle on and pick up speed, that's the slow way and the rusty station wagons will pass you.

Practice helps. Find an abandoned country road with no traffic and do nothing but starts. Just run through a couple gears, hit the brakes stop and do it again. Over and over. Turn around and do back the other way.

When I was young, in my '20s and full into racing I would go the day before a race and practice starts for a good hour. On race day guess who would show up at that first corner in first place leading the pack? Yours truly. They called me the hole shot king.

 

Your bike will tell you when it wants a higher (or lower) gear. Practice practice practice and listen to/feel what your bike is telling you.

As for moving off, do NOT start in 2nd. You can pull away in second, but eventually your gearbox will decide it's had enough of that and will something will let go.

I've found (on my considerably heavier Road King) that 1st is really only for moving off and very low speed work. Giving it some beans in first gear means you can get away from the lights pretty quickly but the bike will want to be in 2nd within a few tens of feet. So for swift and smooth starts, get the bike rolling and up towards where it wants to be in 2nd, click it into 2nd and then give it the beans. You can leave it in second as you roar away and go for 3rd when you're reaching the top of the rev range. Don't be afraid of letting the engine rev as your speed climbs - if in a hurry, I'll leave mine in 2nd until about 40mph (road conditions permitting).

 

Yep, answered your own question

 

Try raising your shifting points by 5 to 10 MPH. If I'm just cruising/putt-putting along I may shift that low, but not if I'm trying to take off from a light/pull into traffic. You're barely able to get out of your own way shifting to second at 15 to 20 MPH. I don't even think the manual says to shift from 1st to second until at least 20MPH. Your bike can hit almost 50MPH in 1st gear before your rev limiter kicks in, (Yes, I've done that a few times). However, I've also had the front end up and shifted without using the clutch whatsoever during some launches. I'm not telling you to run it up to 40-50mph in first gear, but just to excellerate up towards 25 or 30 mph before shifting to 2nd. Hell, I cruise on the highway at 70mph in third gear routinely so my bike is in the higher RPM to just take off if I need the extra umfff.

 

Baaaaad advice for a learner. Number one....do not leave your bike in neutral at a stop signal....leave it in 1st. You never know when you will have to move out of the way in a hurry if someone is cruising up on your ***.

++++++1 to what he said

 

You guys missed the point. Totally don't get it. Take the bus, don't forget to wear the helmet.

 

I was taught that too at the safety class but I don't ride that way. I seriously doubt that I could move in time at that moment you realize the jerk behind you is about to powder your ***. If he's coming really fast maybe I'll see it in time and drop it in gear and haul ***. But, I'm going to neutral and take a rest at a light. Some of those suckers can be long.

 

Here is my bad advice... shift when it feels like it needs to shift by hearing the engine

There I said it

 

I appreciate all the advice. More practice this weekend hopefully when there's no rain. I'll definitely try some of the things in this thread. Ryan

 

Here is a trick I use on my my mx bike and it works just as well on my Harley. Some of the ultra safety minded in here might balk at it but it works. I only pull the clutch with my forefinger and middle finger, when the lever hits your other two fingers that are still on the grip, the clutch will be disengaged just outside of the friction zone. This technique eliminates all the time spent releasing the clutch from the grip to the friction zone, which usually feels like a considerable distance when you're pulling away from a light.