I had to haul my wifes V-rod, when the shifter broke, and had no problem in the back of my 6' bed S 10. I just put a 8' long 2x10 under the front tire all the way to the back tire extending over the tailgate, and had another 2x10 for the ramp, it worked great.

 

I AM looking at full sized trucks, but I would rather get a Ranger with a 4 banger and a stick tranny. If its at all possable, because I drive it on average over 60K per year for work and a 2WD 4 banger with a stick tranny can get over 25mpg. Besides the wife can't drive a stick,first time she saw this one she though it hadtwo brake pedals, so I don't have to worry about her taking it for a spin.
So IF I get a full sized 2WD F-series truck, I want a 4.6, not the little 4.2 V6. There's lots more goodies for a 4.6 than the 6 and they are much easier to get parts forif necessary. I also want it to have a stick trannybehind it. Even a standardauto costs more as an option than aclutch replacement, and the best of them generally need to be rebuilt about the same time I would be thinking of replacing a clutch. So why should I spend $800 to a $1000 for an option that isn't really necessary, then spend another $1000 to $1500 for a rebuilt one about the same time (150 to 175,000 miles) I'm looking to replace a $750 dealer price ($350 if I do it myself) clutch?

 

Yeah I agree with you on the stick vs. auto thing. I just have to have the auto due to some hip troubles. Operating heavy equipment aggravates them enough, without having to shift more in heavy traffic on the way home.

But if I can get 19 mpg consistently with the 5.4 tow package and 4wd, I bet a plain jane 4.6 stick would do really well on fuel.

 

I'm surprised and encouraged by your getting that good a mileage figure from a FS 4X4 with a 5.4 and auto. Ordinarily I would have guessed that it wouldn't get over 15 on a good day.
Think I better look "harder" at a FS truck, might get a better deal on one too. "IF" I can find one without every do-dad Ford offers stuck on it. Common garden veriety base line vehicles seem to be rarer than hen's teetharound here.

 

Actually the ramp size is more important than the bed size. A simple tape measure will tell you if the bike will fit or not. What you need to consider are your ramps length. I have used standard length ramps and the ramps I currently have which are 9.5 feet long. It makes it somewhat easier with the longer ramps and they are rated for 3000 lbs.

 

Yeah what boats (bonsmate) said .... I carry my 06 Sportster 90.1 inches in the 6.5 foot bed of the Mega cab when I cant arrange for a ride to or from the dealer and work. No probs. I have been pricing aluminum utility trailers and aluminum bike trailers. Both range from about $900 to $1200 bucks according to the bells and whistles. The ramps Ive been looking at vary with length and width but the one I need is around 400 ducks. If you do a search, you can find a site that will ask for the dimensions of the bike and truck and give you the expected lenght of ramp you will need. I have been putting mine on by backing the truck into tailgate first into the drainage ditch in front of the house and using a 16" in wide pieceof would about 12' long to roll the bike up onto the bed. I did this the day before yesterday to bring it down for the Stage 1. When I got to the shop, all they had was an aluminum ramp that wasnt long enough. The bike bottomed and we (3) had to lift the bike up a bit to get it off the truck. Ill see if I can find the site with the calculator and post it for ya.

 

http://www.motorcycleramps.com/motor...hitch-ramp.htm

Duh !!!!!

 

Yes they will fit

 

http://www.sportutilitytrailers.com/...49TC-TS76M.htm

But if we have to spend 3, 4 5 hundred on ramps ... would this be a better way to go ?

 

I do know my Road King will not fit in the back of my F250 unless I remove the tool box and then it has to sit sideways. For me, I think a trailer would be the best investment.